Beko Dryer On Switch Wiring DPC 8360W
I've recently replaced the belt on my dryer, but stupidly removed the wiring from the on switch at the back of the control panel. I've tried a few combinations of wiring to no avail. Any help on the correct way to wire would be awesome. I currently have:
Red wire
Grey wire
Yellow/Purple wires
Red/Blue wires
I have a 4 prong switch.
Solution Summary
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This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
Beko DPC 8360W on/off switch wiring query after belt replacement
- The problem
- After replacing the belt on a Beko DPC 8360W tumble dryer, the wiring was removed from the 4-prong on/off switch and the correct reconnection was unknown. The reported wires were red, grey, yellow/purple and red/blue, and trial combinations had not worked.
- Likely cause
- The switch wiring was disconnected and the live and neutral pairs on the double-pole on/off switch were no longer identified. The discussion suggests incorrect pairing could directly connect live to neutral and cause failure.
- What fixed it
- The accepted advice was to identify the switch terminals and wire pairs using a continuity tester with the appliance unplugged: trace continuity from the plug live pin and neutral pin to the four wires, then identify the two switched pairs on the 4-prong switch by checking which terminals are open when off and continuous when on. Live and neutral must be kept on separate switched pairs. The exact final wiring arrangement was not posted.
- Checks to try
- Continuity test from the plug live pin to all four wires
- Continuity test from the plug neutral pin to all four wires
- Continuity test across switch terminals with the switch off
- Continuity test across switch terminals with the switch on
- Parts or tools mentioned
- Continuity tester
- 4-prong on/off switch
Safety: Do not apply mains power while identifying the switch wiring. Incorrect wiring could connect live directly to neutral. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
4 Answers
If it’s an on/off switch you need to use a continuity test meter to work out which connection is which. Most are double pole switches so a live is on one connector and when the switch is turned on it passes power to the other live. The same goes for the neutral wires.
If you get the wires the wrong way around you will connect a live wire directly to a neutral when the switch is activated and it will go with a bang.
Basically there would normally be two live and two neutral wires with their connection token by the switch being turned off.
Need Professional Help or Spare Parts?
I have a continuity tester, but I could not get any response. I did not want to have mains power running through the washing machine when testing.
No you don’t need to do that. You test down the live of the plug for continuity on all 4 wires. You should get a connection on at least 1. Then test down from the neutral pin to all wires. You should get continuity on at least one.
That should identify at least one live and one neutral.
Thrn you turn off the on off switch and test continuity across the connections. You need to work out two pins that have broken connections when switch is off but continuity when switch is turned on. That’s where 2 lives connect. The opposite side should also be broken continuity with switch off and have continuity when switch is on. That’s where two neutrals go.
Sonthere shoild be a live and neutral on opposite sides of the switch and there should never be any continuity between them whether switch is off or on.
When switch is on live passes to the common live and neutral passes continuity to the common neutral. A certain amount of knowledge of how things work is needed to work out which are the common wires but it should be fairly easy to identify the main live and neutral wires which need to be kept apart at all times or it will blow.
Need Professional Help or Spare Parts?
Cheers. I will do some testing.
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