Bosch Washer/Dryer combo that stopped in the night on a wash/dry cycle
Hi. It's me again.
I have a 7 year old Bosch Washer/Dryer combo that stopped in the night on a wash/dry cycle. The circuit breaker to the kitchen had popped. And it popped a couple of more times in attempting to restore operation.
In the end it was the dryer fan that needed replacement. The fan draws air from the condenser and directs it through a manifold with a heater element and a couple of TOCs. The TOC's are normally closed switches that open if it's too hot in the manifold. In this case the fan would not spin, the air was not moving, things got over-heated and both TOCs popped open to shut down the heater.
At that point we got an E95 diagnostic on the control panel which, according to our manual, is no water in the condenser. The wash cycle was working fine. A one hour intensive dry cycle would on a perfectly dry towel would produce a cool wet towel. I replaced the fan (€145 from Bosch) and reset both TOCs (push in the button) and everything is peachy now.
So check to see if the fan is spinning and if the TOC's are popped before replacing the solenoids.
Solution Summary
AI-generated from this discussion
This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
Bosch washer-dryer stopped during wash/dry cycle; drying fan failure caused overheating and E95
- The problem
- A 7-year-old Bosch washer/dryer stopped overnight on a wash/dry cycle and tripped the kitchen circuit breaker several times when operation was retried. Washing still worked, but a one-hour intensive dry cycle left a towel cool and wet. The control then showed E95.
- Likely cause
- Confirmed failed drying fan. The fan was not spinning, so air was not moving through the heater manifold. This caused overheating and both thermal cut-outs (TOCs) to trip open, disabling the heater. The E95 'no water in the condenser' indication was reported alongside this fault and was not the actual failed part.
- What fixed it
- The drying fan was replaced and both TOCs were manually reset using their push buttons. The poster advised checking whether the fan is spinning and whether the TOCs have tripped before replacing solenoids.
- Checks to try
- Circuit breaker to kitchen had tripped repeatedly
- Wash cycle still operated normally
- Dry cycle left laundry cool and wet
- E95 diagnostic displayed
- Dryer fan was found not to spin
- Both TOCs had opened/tripped and were reset
- Parts or tools mentioned
- Dryer fan
- Thermal cut-outs (TOCs)
Safety: Isolate the appliance from the mains before removing panels or inspecting internal parts. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
1 Answer
Thanks for coming back with the update — that’s a very useful find, and it makes good sense technically.
On these Bosch washer-dryers, if the drying fan stops, airflow through the heater/manifold is lost, the duct overheats, and the thermal cut-outs (TOCs) can trip. Once that happens, the heater is effectively disabled, so you can end up with a “dry” programme that leaves items cool and wet. The tripped kitchen breaker also fits with a motor or heater-related fault during the drying stage.
For anyone else with similar symptoms, the sensible checks are:
1. Confirm whether the fault only happens on drying If washing completes normally but drying stops, trips the electrics, or leaves laundry cold/wet, concentrate on the drying system rather than water fill or wash components.
2. Check the drying fan operation If accessible, see whether the fan actually starts and spins freely. A seized or failed fan motor will stop airflow and quickly overheat the heater duct.
3. Inspect/reset the thermal cut-outs Many Bosch units have manual reset thermal cut-outs on or near the heater manifold. If they’ve tripped, the dryer may run but produce no heat.
4. Don’t assume the first fault code is the root cause A code referring to condenser water can sometimes be a knock-on effect rather than the actual failed part.
5. Check for restrictions Blocked ducts, fluff build-up, or poor airflow can also cause overheating and repeated cut-out trips.
Always isolate the appliance from the mains before removing panels or inspecting internal parts. If there’s any doubt, or if mains electrics, heaters, or wiring need testing, it’s best left to a qualified appliance engineer.
Useful feedback — thanks for posting it.
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This answer was generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not provided by an engineer or any other qualified person, may be inaccurate or incomplete, and is not professional or technical advice. Do not rely on it. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before carrying out any electrical, gas or water work. Use is entirely at your own risk. See our full Terms of Use.
SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE ACTING ON THIS GUIDANCE
Never work on a live appliance
Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.
Never attempt gas work
By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional. Do not attempt it yourself.
Watch for sharp edges
Outer panels are smooth, but internal parts have sharp machined edges. Wear protective gloves and arm sleeves.
Water appliances can leak
Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.
Know your limits
If you are not confident testing or working inside the appliance, stop and call a professional.
AI guidance, not guaranteed
This response is generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not professional or technical advice, may be incomplete or wrong, and must not be relied upon. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before any electrical, gas or water work.
This is general information only and is not professional advice. The WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant is not an engineer and is not qualified. See our full Terms of Use.
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