Drum Starts, In 3 Seconds Stops, Starts Again, In 3 Seconds Stops....

I've edited my last reply so please re-read. On reflection I think a second switch would need more wires. If it just has 3 it's likely to be common, off and on. So to test it you test continuity which should pass from common to one wire and then switch to the second wire when activated by blowing up it. If it seems OK and if you've eliminated pressure chamber blockages you've done all you can.

It only clicks once when blown into. Tried tapping it, nothing.....

Noticed the pcb has only four wires going to it, taking two away for power, not a lot left !

Got to decide if its time is up or not.

Thanks tumbleweed. When you say there's no blockage but the pressure bottle isn't accessible have you blown gently down the pressure switch tubing from the pressure switch end to make sure it's not blocked?

Also, when you blow into the pressure switch does it click once or twice? Some pressure switches have 2 levels, one is often just an anti flood level which activates the pump if water level gets too high. If it has 3 wires one will be a common live and another will pass power to once circuit when in rest (off) position, when air pressure activates the switch it passes power to the third wire. With four or more wires there could be a second water level or a flood protection level which powers up the pump if activated.

If it only clicks once try tapping it firmly on the edge with a screwdriver handle in case one level has stuck. If by any chance this releases something stuck you still need to replace the pressure switch as it may stick again.

I have done continuity check on pressure switch unit. Its open circuit across any two of its three terminal sockets. But blow into it and the first two terminals give a reading on ohmeter. So it seems to have only one switch unless the n/o terminal is broken inside the unit. ( Not used to these switches, so just thought because its got a three pin plug/socket and three wires to it, that it was likely be a common, norm. open and norm. closed type switch.) Do you think its ok or not?

Checked the rubber pressure tube but its not blocked. The bottle's inaccessible. Removed drain motor and filter with drain tubes from bottom of drum, but apart from being badly blocked up with all that gunge they were ok.

Now when I switch it on it's still the same as it was. More accurately, If I select the spin prog. the drain motor turns on for 3 seconds, then off for 8 seconds, then on for 3 seconds, then off for 8 seconds, then on for 3 seconds, then off for four minutes. Then back to the same cycle, over and over, 3s, 8s, 4min.

The rinse and drain progs, do exacty the same thing. i.e nothing else, the drum doe's not turn. It's got to be the pressure

system and/or the circuit board. Your article "faults on pressure systems clarified" is very good.

Check the pressure system, if it has a blockage it can trap air inside the pressure system so the machine thinks it's got water in when it hasn't. That would stop it filling with water and stop it doing the fast spin too.

Check these two articles - how does a washing machine control water levels? | What kind of faults happen on pressure system?

:unsure:No lights appeared like you said. Have spent time today but m/c still unusable. Moved it out of kitchen today so people have room so am checking it without water connection. The drain cycle works, but the water being drained (into a bucket), is filthy and full of vile smelling gunge. I've filled it with water ( via a watering can) about a dozen times and its still dumping a hell of a lot of gunge, doe's not seem possible. Removed Pcb, it looks all right, but is it. I've got to get the m/c back on hose to check wash cycles. Tried spin cycle, ok twice, wouldn't spin third time...... It still doing this 3 or 4 second thing most of the time,

have checked out connections, plugs, sockets. Is pressure switch a likely culprit? All the goo drained out could have something to do with it?