SMEG fridge/freezer thermostat replacement
During the recent heatwave and even since the temperature has dropped again, I noticed my fridges had warmed up. I have two of these APFF50AP fridge freezers and, in both cases, the freezers are still working fine but the fridges have warmed up to 8-10 degrees C. Having already defrosted the freezer section to make sure it's in good shape, the problem persists so my next thought it to replace the thermostat in the fridge section.
Alas, I can't figure how I do this. There are no obvious fasteners to release the thermostat housing and I can't find any service docs explaining how.
Can anyone offer advice on how to release the thermostat housing?
2 Answers
Thanks for your suggestion. I have since turned it off and allowed it to defrost for longer, over 48 hours. Having turned it back on, it’s still only reached a low of 13 degrees, but the compressor isn’t running constantly. I guess it thinks 13 is okay, even though it’s turned to its lowest setting.
If both appliances have the same symptom after a heatwave, I’d be a bit cautious about assuming the fridge thermostat is the fault straight away. On many fridge freezers, a freezer can appear “fine” while poor airflow, icing, or a fan issue lets the fridge section run too warm.
Before inspecting anything internal, isolate the appliance from the mains. If it turns into sealed refrigeration, mains electrical, or complex diagnostic work, it’s best left to a qualified engineer.
1. Check whether this is a fan-assisted design If the fridge is cooled by air from the freezer, a failed evaporator fan, iced air duct, or flap/damper problem can give exactly this fault: freezer cold, fridge 8–10°C.
2. Listen for the fan Open the freezer and fridge doors and listen after the compressor has been running. On some models the fan stops with the door open, so press the door switch in by hand and listen again.
3. Check for hidden icing Even if you’ve defrosted the freezer compartment, ice can build up around the evaporator cover or air channels. A full 24–48 hour defrost with doors open is sometimes needed.
4. Thermostat housing removal On SMEG units, these housings are often clipped rather than screwed. Look carefully for screw covers, retaining tabs underneath or at the rear, and check whether the control knob pulls off first. Don’t force it, as the plastic can crack and the capillary thermostat tube can be damaged.
5. Confirm whether it’s actually controlling correctly If the compressor is running a lot but the fridge is still warm, that points away from a simple thermostat fault and more towards airflow, icing, fan, or refrigerant-related trouble.
If you can add whether this model has an internal fan and where the thermostat housing sits, that would help narrow down how it comes apart.
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Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.
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This response is generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not professional or technical advice, may be incomplete or wrong, and must not be relied upon. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before any electrical, gas or water work.
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It's not fan assisted. The compressor is still working because the freezer works, but it also isn't running continuously. I can't be certain there isn't hidden ice but it seems unlikely that both units would suffer the same icing issue during a heatwave. These are all the ideas already suggested by GPT and Gemini (though GPT was also persistently wrong about the fan idea). I'm hoping there's a person out there with some experience instead.
Hi Upfall,
As an engineer, I would say, that in your case, it's almost certainly number 3 in AI's answer above:
"Check for hidden icing Even if you’ve defrosted the freezer compartment, ice can build up around the evaporator cover or air channels. A full 24–48 hour defrost with doors open is sometimes needed."
Have a try of that and come back to us if they are still not working after a full defrost.
Thanks for your suggestion. I have since turned it off and allowed it to defrost for longer, over 48 hours. Having turned it back on, it’s still only reached a low of 13 degrees, but the compressor isn’t running constantly. I guess it thinks 13 is okay, even though it’s turned to its lowest setting.
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