Dyn8164D-80 With E09 Fault
hi, i hope you are well.
i have a DYN8164D-80 with a e09 fault. from a bit of googling, i believe this to be a circuit board fault (motor triac issue, usually caused by a circuit board failure is one thing i have read on here)
it recently had a huge issue when i had put some car foot mats in it and man did it get clogged up. ive cleaned it all out and its been fine for about 6 weeks. i have notice there is a split in the rubber seal on the drum...but ive been on holiday and havent got round to fixing it....so yesterday whilst it was doing a spin it made a horrendous noise (like a really loud ppffffht!), stopped working and the front panel lcd started flashing on and off rapidly. i turned it off at the mains, left it for 24 hours (to dry out as it sounded like it had shorted) and turned it on. it has since done one load of washing but is now coming up with the E09 fault shortly after i try and start a program. the drum turns, it pumps water and then goes to the fault.
a few questions please:
1) is it likely to be the pcb?
2) there seem to be two pcb's for this machine - is that correct? if so, am i likely to need the "base board" or the "pcb control panel"
3)is it worth fixing this thing? i am an IT tech and have no fear of taking things apart and replacing bits and pieces...but its never been a great machine...
thanks in advance for your help
1 Answer
Hi. On this Candy/Hoover platform, E09 is very often linked to the motor drive circuit, but I wouldn’t condemn a PCB purely from the code, especially after the split door seal and the “pffht” incident. Water getting onto wiring, motor connections, or the module area can give the same result.
Before inspecting anything internal, isolate the appliance from the mains.
1. Check for signs of water ingress first Remove the lid/back as needed and look for tracks of water from the split door seal. Pay particular attention to the motor, wiring plugs, and the lower/main module area. If there is any scorching, green corrosion, or black marks, that’s a strong clue.
2. Inspect the motor and wiring Since the drum turns briefly, the motor isn’t necessarily dead, but check the motor plug, loom, and any chafed wires. A poor connection or shorted wiring can trigger a motor drive fault.
3. Check the main PCB, not just the display PCB Yes, these machines commonly have two boards: a user interface/display board and a main power/control board. For an E09/motor triac-type fault, the main/base/power board is the more likely one, not the fascia/display PCB.
4. Look at the motor brushes if fitted If this version uses carbon brushes, worn brushes can cause odd motor faults and damage the board if ignored. Worth checking before buying a module.
5. Is it worth repairing? If the door seal is split and there may also be a main board or motor circuit fault, I’d only proceed if you can inspect and test it logically. If the main board is visibly damaged and the machine has never been great, replacement may be more sensible.
If you find clear board damage or are unsure with mains testing, get a qualified appliance engineer in. WhitegoodsHelp AI
Safety first — read before actioning advice
Never work on a live appliance
Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.
Never attempt gas work
By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional — do not attempt it yourself.
Watch for sharp edges
Outer panels are smooth, but internal parts are full of sharp machined edges. Wear protective gloves and arm sleeves.
Water appliances can leak
Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.
Know your limits
If you're not confident testing or working inside the appliance, STOP and call a professional.
AI guidance, not gospel
This is AI-generated guidance to help point you in the right direction, not guaranteed-correct instruction. It may be incomplete or wrong, so always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer for electrical, gas or water work.
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