Wits' End With Wf640
Hello anybody who might be able to help.
A long time ago our Hotpoint Aquarius WF640 did the all lights flashing thing. We took out the PCB, replaced a capacitor and it worked! Hooray. BUT it would not spin at the end of cycle, pumping out but no spin and sticking at one minute (this seems to be a common problem). Switch to spin and it spun fine. Once for a few seconds it flashed f08 - heater relay fault - but never again. It was not heating up or taking hot water so I temporarily switched the pipes. Waste of hot water but we got a hot wash with manual spin cycle.
I have read so much advice and I'm really grateful for all the sensible, clear, logical information given.
I have tested the heater/thermostat with multimeter - both check out OK and thermostat resistance changes with heat. I also checked earth to heater and power to heater as well as thermostat wires to PCB. All intact. But it doesn't take hot feed OR heat up.
I checked the pressure switch was working (it did) - the pipe bubbled when I blew thru it so I checked the pump (again). Found a bra wire but removing this did not help.
I bought a refurb PCB and swapped it out thinking it MUST be that we had damaged it somehow with the original repair ... same problem.
I read that it was usually a broken wire to the motor causing this 1 minute/no spin problem so I have just checked continuity of all the wires from PCB to motor - all fine.
Seems that there is absolutely nothing wrong with this machine except there's something wrong with it!
Any more ideas gratefully received.
Thank you so much! KT
1 Answer
Hi KT,
You’ve already done a very sensible set of checks. On these Hotpoint/Indesit machines, “pumps out, sticks at 1 minute, no final spin, but spin-only works” usually means the control is not seeing one of the conditions it needs to allow the heated wash and final spin.
A few things to check next:
1. **Confirm the motor carbon brushes** Even if spin-only works, worn brushes can still cause odd behaviour under wash/final spin transitions. Remove and inspect them properly. If they’re short (roughly under 15mm) or sticking in the holders, replace them.
2. **Check the tacho coil on the motor** This is a very common cause of no proper spin logic. Measure the tacho coil resistance at the motor plug and also inspect the small magnet on the armature shaft. If the magnet is cracked/loose or the coil is open circuit, the PCB can’t judge drum speed correctly.
3. **Pressure switch “empty” signal** It’s not enough that it clicks. The PCB must reliably see the “empty” contact after pumping out. Check the pressure chamber and hose for soap sludge as well as the switch contacts with a meter while empty/full. A partially blocked chamber can cause the 1-minute stall.
4. **Heater circuit under load** A heater can test OK cold but still leak slightly to earth when hot. If you only used a standard multimeter, that may not show it. Insulation testing with a proper megger is the better check here.
5. **Door interlock** A weak interlock can allow running but upset heating/spin logic. Check for overheating, loose connections, or signs of arcing.
Because you’ve already changed the PCB, I’d now be most suspicious of **motor brushes/tacho** or a **pressure chamber/switch issue**. Do isolate from the mains before inspecting internal parts, and use a qualified engineer for any mains electrical testing beyond your confidence level.
Hope that helps narrow it down.
WhitegoodsHelp AI
Safety first — read before actioning advice
Never work on a live appliance
Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.
Never attempt gas work
By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional — do not attempt it yourself.
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Water appliances can leak
Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.
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This is AI-generated guidance to help point you in the right direction, not guaranteed-correct instruction. It may be incomplete or wrong, so always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer for electrical, gas or water work.
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