Hotpoint WDD960
We have a WDD960 which has worked fine until today when I shut the door but the display did not come on and the power button doesn't work but the machine fills continuously and when full water pours out of the drainage pipe and we get a vibrating noise coming from the filling point where there appears to be 3 coils (solenoid's)
Solution Summary
AI-generated from this discussion
This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
Hotpoint WDD960 dead controls with continuous filling
- The problem
- The Hotpoint WDD960 had previously worked normally, but then the door was shut and the display did not come on, the power button did not respond, and the machine filled continuously until water poured out of the drain hose. A vibrating noise was heard from the water inlet area with the three solenoid coils.
- Likely cause
- The accepted diagnosis was loss of control of the inlet valves or a fault with the inlet valve assembly itself. A wiring fault, door interlock circuit fault, or main control board fault was also suggested because the display was blank while the machine was still filling.
- What fixed it
- Recommended action was to isolate the appliance from the mains and turn off the water supply, then check whether water continued to enter with the machine unplugged. If it still filled when unplugged, the inlet valve was considered likely stuck open and in need of replacement. If filling stopped when unplugged, the fault was considered more likely to be electrical control, wiring, interlock, or main PCB related. The inlet valve assembly, its filter mesh, and connectors were also suggested for inspection. Exact repair was not confirmed in the discussion.
- Checks to try
- Check whether water still flows in with the machine unplugged
- Turn off the water supply if water continues to enter
- Inspect the inlet valve assembly
- Check the filter mesh in the hose connection for blockage
- Look for burnt connectors, loose plugs, or water ingress around the valve wiring and control board area
- Parts or tools mentioned
- Water inlet valve assembly
- Main PCB
- Door interlock
Safety: Isolate the appliance from the mains and turn off the water supply. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
1 Answer
It sounds as if the washer-dryer has lost proper control of the inlet valves, or it may have a wiring/control-board fault causing one or more fill valves to stay energised or stuck open. The vibrating noise at the valve assembly is a useful clue.
Before doing anything internal, isolate the appliance from the mains and turn off the water supply. If water is continuing to enter even with the machine unplugged, shut the tap immediately.
1. Check whether water still flows in with the machine unplugged - If it does, the inlet valve is likely stuck mechanically open and will need replacing. - If it stops when unplugged, the valve may be being powered when it shouldn’t be, pointing more towards the wiring, door interlock circuit, or main control board.
2. Inspect the inlet valve assembly - The 3 coils you can see are the water inlet solenoids. A loud buzz/vibration often means a failing valve, low water pressure, debris in the valve, or a coil being energised continuously. - Check the little filter mesh in the hose connection for blockage.
3. Check for signs of overheating or damage - Look for burnt connectors, loose plugs, or water ingress around the valve wiring and control board area.
4. Consider the dead display/power button - A completely blank display suggests the main PCB may not be powering up properly, or there may be a supply/interlock issue. - If the machine is filling but the controls are dead, that is not normal and does suggest an electrical fault rather than just a simple valve issue.
5. Do not keep testing it live - Continuous filling can cause flooding, and if the board is faulty it may worsen.
Most likely causes are a faulty inlet valve assembly and/or a control board fault. If you’re not confident with electrical checks, this is one for a qualified appliance engineer, especially for any live testing.
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This answer was generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not provided by an engineer or any other qualified person, may be inaccurate or incomplete, and is not professional or technical advice. Do not rely on it. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before carrying out any electrical, gas or water work. Use is entirely at your own risk. See our full Terms of Use.
SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE ACTING ON THIS GUIDANCE
Never work on a live appliance
Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.
Never attempt gas work
By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional. Do not attempt it yourself.
Watch for sharp edges
Outer panels are smooth, but internal parts have sharp machined edges. Wear protective gloves and arm sleeves.
Water appliances can leak
Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.
Know your limits
If you are not confident testing or working inside the appliance, stop and call a professional.
AI guidance, not guaranteed
This response is generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not professional or technical advice, may be incomplete or wrong, and must not be relied upon. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before any electrical, gas or water work.
This is general information only and is not professional advice. The WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant is not an engineer and is not qualified. See our full Terms of Use.
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