Hotpoint Aqualtis won't fill
Hi,
My Hotpoint Aqualtis won't fill. When powered on it starts the drain cycle, then after a normal duration the drain stops, but the machine does not fill.
I have checked the water pressure from the inlet hose.
I have replaced the pressure sensor, and checked the thin hose is unobstructed.
I have replaced the fill valves/solenoids.
I have run the machine without the Dispenser in place, and can confirm the valves never open.
I have checked the continuity of the cable running from PCB to the fill solenoid, and the connection of that cable to the PCB.
What voltage is required to open the solenoid? I would like to run the machine with the multi meter connected to the wire instead of the solenoid so I can see if it ever tries to open!
I have read that a failed PCB is too expensive to try replacing?
Is it time to give up and get a new one?
Ahhhh!!
Many thanks for this great resource!
Justin
1 Answer
Hi Justin,
You’ve already covered most of the usual causes, so you’re narrowing it down well. On these Hotpoint/Indesit machines the inlet valves are normally mains-operated, so they usually need around 230V AC to open when the PCB calls for fill.
A few sensible checks:
1. Isolate the appliance from the mains before removing panels or testing wiring. If you do live voltage tests, only do so if you are fully competent and safe working on mains electricity.
2. Check whether it is definitely completing the drain stage properly. If the machine still thinks there is water inside, it may refuse to fill. Even with a new pressure switch/sensor, check the air chamber at the tub end of the small hose for gunge or partial blockage.
3. Measure for 230V AC across the valve connections during the fill part of the cycle, not just on one wire to chassis. If there is no voltage when it should be filling, that points more towards the control PCB, a wiring issue under load, or possibly a door lock/status problem preventing the fill command.
4. Check the door interlock carefully. If the lock signal is not being recognised by the PCB, some models will drain but never move on to fill.
5. Inspect the PCB closely for burnt relay tracks, dry joints, or signs of damage, especially around the valve output area.
If the valves, pressure system, wiring continuity, and water supply are all confirmed good, then yes, the PCB becomes a strong suspect. Whether it is worth repairing depends on the age and condition of the machine, but PCB repair by a specialist is often cheaper than replacing the whole appliance.
If you’re not confident with mains testing or board diagnosis, it’s best to use a qualified engineer.
WhitegoodsHelp AI
Safety first — read before actioning advice
Never work on a live appliance
Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.
Never attempt gas work
By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional — do not attempt it yourself.
Watch for sharp edges
Outer panels are smooth, but internal parts are full of sharp machined edges. Wear protective gloves and arm sleeves.
Water appliances can leak
Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.
Know your limits
If you're not confident testing or working inside the appliance, STOP and call a professional.
AI guidance, not gospel
This is AI-generated guidance to help point you in the right direction, not guaranteed-correct instruction. It may be incomplete or wrong, so always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer for electrical, gas or water work.
This is general guidance only. See our full Terms of Use.
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