White Westinghouse washer won't spin and drain water

It does sound as if the machine is getting as far as spin/drain when you bypass that part of the lid switch circuit, but something is then stalling or cutting out. On an older top loader like this, the most likely causes are the lid switch assembly itself, a seized or failing drain pump, or a worn drive/coupling/brake-related part.

Before checking anything internal, isolate the washer from the mains. Do not keep bypassing the lid switch except briefly for testing, as it’s a safety device.

1. Check the lid switch properly Even if it clicks, the spin/drain contacts may still be faulty under load. A 4-wire switch often has separate contacts for different functions. If bypassing the spin/drain pair starts the machine, the switch assembly is still a prime suspect.

2. Inspect the drain pump The squeaking and 20-second run could be the pump struggling, jamming, or overheating. Look for: - Coins, bra wires, lint, string in the pump - A stiff or damaged pump impeller - Signs of leakage or burning

3. Check if the motor is trying to run If you hear a hum or squeal but little movement, the motor coupling, belt (if fitted), clutch, or brake may be binding. At 14 years old, worn mechanical parts are quite possible.

4. Consider water level/pressure switch issues If it won’t continue once only a little water remains, the pressure system may not be resetting correctly. Check the pressure hose for blockage, splits, or kinks.

5. Don’t ignore the squeaking That points more towards a mechanical seizure than an electrical control fault.

If you’re unsure, the next best step is to check the pump and lid switch first, as they’re the commonest and safest starting points. For any live electrical diagnosis, motor work, or if you’re not confident, it’s best to get a qualified appliance engineer in.

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