Broken servis washing machine

If it goes straight to “End” after a brief drain, the machine is usually deciding it can’t safely start the programme. It isn’t always the main PCB, so it’s worth ruling out the common causes first.

1. Isolate it from the mains first before removing any panels or testing parts.

2. Check the door interlock carefully. If the lock isn’t proving properly, some machines will drain briefly then abort. Make sure the door closes firmly and the latch isn’t loose or damaged. If you have a meter and know how to use it safely, the lock can be tested, but replacement is often the practical check.

3. Check the pressure system. Even if there’s no water left, a blocked pressure chamber or pressure switch hose can falsely tell the PCB the machine is already full or in an invalid state. Inspect the thin hose from the drum/tub to the pressure switch for soap sludge, splits or water trapped in it.

4. Recheck the motor side. New brushes are good, but make sure they are fitted correctly, moving freely, and have bedded onto the commutator. Also inspect the motor plug, wiring, and especially the tachometer coil on the back of the motor. If the PCB can’t see motor feedback, it may end the cycle immediately.

5. Check the drain pump wiring and filter area again. A pump that runs doesn’t always mean the control is seeing everything correctly if there’s wiring damage or a short.

6. Only after those checks would I strongly suspect the control board.

If you’re not confident with live electrical testing, it’s best to get a qualified appliance engineer in. Any mains-related repairs should be left to a competent professional.

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