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Servis

Broken servis washing machine

GOGodzuki
Asked over 6 years ago 8,554 views
0

Help! My washing machine switches to "end" seconds after selecting any cycle. The pump runs (no water is now left in the machine) and then that's it..... nothing. I've changed the brushes, checked all pipes for blockages, checked the heater coil. I'm thinking the mother board is knackered is there anything else I can try please

Solution Summary

AI-generated from this discussion

This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.

Servis washing machine goes straight to End after brief drain

The problem
The Servis washing machine switched to "End" within seconds of selecting any programme. The drain pump ran first and the machine then stopped without filling or washing. The user had already changed the motor brushes, checked pipework for blockages and checked the heater.
Likely cause
The accepted diagnosis was that the machine was aborting the programme because a start condition was not being proved. The most strongly supported possibilities mentioned were a faulty door interlock, a blocked or faulty pressure system (pressure chamber, pressure switch hose or switch), or a motor feedback/wiring issue such as brush fitting, motor connections or tachometer coil. The control board was suggested only after these checks were ruled out.
What fixed it
Recommended action was to isolate the appliance from the mains and check the door interlock, inspect the pressure switch hose/chamber for blockage or damage, and recheck the motor brushes, motor plug/wiring and tachometer coil. The main PCB was not identified as the primary suspect until those items had been eliminated. No completed repair was confirmed in the discussion.
Checks to try
  • Motor brushes changed
  • Pipes checked for blockages
  • Heater coil checked
  • Door interlock advised to be checked
  • Pressure chamber/pressure switch hose advised to be inspected
  • Motor plug, wiring and tachometer coil advised to be checked
  • Drain pump wiring and filter area advised to be checked
Parts or tools mentioned
  • Motor brushes
  • Door interlock
  • Pressure switch hose
  • Pressure chamber
  • Pressure switch
  • Tachometer coil
  • Control board

Safety: Isolate the appliance from the mains before removing panels or testing parts. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.

Cause identifiedGenerated 7 Aug 2026 · AI summaries can make mistakes — read the full thread below.
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1 Answer

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WH
WhitegoodsHelp AIAI Assistant
Answered 3 months ago

If it goes straight to “End” after a brief drain, the machine is usually deciding it can’t safely start the programme. It isn’t always the main PCB, so it’s worth ruling out the common causes first.

1. Isolate it from the mains first before removing any panels or testing parts.

2. Check the door interlock carefully. If the lock isn’t proving properly, some machines will drain briefly then abort. Make sure the door closes firmly and the latch isn’t loose or damaged. If you have a meter and know how to use it safely, the lock can be tested, but replacement is often the practical check.

3. Check the pressure system. Even if there’s no water left, a blocked pressure chamber or pressure switch hose can falsely tell the PCB the machine is already full or in an invalid state. Inspect the thin hose from the drum/tub to the pressure switch for soap sludge, splits or water trapped in it.

4. Recheck the motor side. New brushes are good, but make sure they are fitted correctly, moving freely, and have bedded onto the commutator. Also inspect the motor plug, wiring, and especially the tachometer coil on the back of the motor. If the PCB can’t see motor feedback, it may end the cycle immediately.

5. Check the drain pump wiring and filter area again. A pump that runs doesn’t always mean the control is seeing everything correctly if there’s wiring damage or a short.

6. Only after those checks would I strongly suspect the control board.

If you’re not confident with live electrical testing, it’s best to get a qualified appliance engineer in. Any mains-related repairs should be left to a competent professional.

WhitegoodsHelp AI

WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant

This answer was generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not provided by an engineer or any other qualified person, may be inaccurate or incomplete, and is not professional or technical advice. Do not rely on it. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before carrying out any electrical, gas or water work. Use is entirely at your own risk. See our full Terms of Use.

SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE ACTING ON THIS GUIDANCE

  • Never work on a live appliance

    Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.

  • Never attempt gas work

    By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional. Do not attempt it yourself.

  • Watch for sharp edges

    Outer panels are smooth, but internal parts have sharp machined edges. Wear protective gloves and arm sleeves.

  • Water appliances can leak

    Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.

  • Know your limits

    If you are not confident testing or working inside the appliance, stop and call a professional.

  • AI guidance, not guaranteed

    This response is generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not professional or technical advice, may be incomplete or wrong, and must not be relied upon. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before any electrical, gas or water work.

This is general information only and is not professional advice. The WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant is not an engineer and is not qualified. See our full Terms of Use.

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