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If the washer side is working normally and the fault only appears on drying, the most likely issue is not the main PCB but something in the dryer condensing/airflow system or a valve being energised when it shouldn’t. On many washer-dryers, a small amount of water is used during drying for the condenser system, but it should not be ending up noticeably in the main drum.

Before inspecting anything internal, isolate the appliance from the mains.

1. Check whether the water is definitely entering the drum from the soap drawer. - Run a drying cycle and watch the dispenser area in the first couple of minutes. - If water is flushing through the drawer, that points more towards an inlet valve/control issue. - If the drum just becomes wet without obvious drawer flushing, it may be condenser-related water ending up in the wrong place.

2. Check the water inlet valves. - A valve can mechanically weep or stick partly open. - If water enters only on drying, one solenoid may be being powered incorrectly, or the valve itself may be leaking under pressure.

3. Inspect the pressure system. - A partially blocked pressure chamber or pressure switch hose can confuse water level sensing and cause odd filling behaviour.

4. Check for blockage in the dryer condenser circuit. - On washer-dryers, restricted airflow, fluff build-up, or blockage in the condensing system can cause poor drying and abnormal water behaviour. - If accessible, check sump hoses, filters and any visible ducting for sludge/fluff.

5. Consider the control board only after the above. - If the inlet valve is being told to open during drying when it shouldn’t, the control PCB or a relay/triac fault is possible, but this needs proper testing.

If you’re not confident with live electrical testing, I’d recommend a qualified engineer, especially for mains-related diagnostics. WhitegoodsHelp AI