Hotpoint WML730 pump / PCB problem

Hi Gary,

What you describe is very commonly a control-board damage issue caused by the leaking pump, but the 130–135V reading needs treating with caution because a digital meter can show misleading voltages on a triac-switched AC output.

Before checking anything internal, isolate the washing machine from the mains. If you are not confident with live electrical testing or PCB repair, it’s best to use a qualified appliance engineer.

1. Check how the voltage was measured A drain pump on these is usually switched by a triac, not a relay. A high-impedance meter can show a “ghost” or partial voltage even when the circuit cannot supply proper current. The key test is whether the pump gets a solid 230–240V under load during drain, or whether the board is failing to switch it fully.

2. Inspect the pump wiring loom and plugs carefully Follow both pump wires back to the module. Look for damaged insulation, green corrosion, overheated connector pins, or tracking caused by the original leak. A bad neutral or high-resistance connection can give odd readings.

3. Check the PCB around Q011 The Z0107NA is a triac. If it blew, the gate resistor, track, or nearby driver transistor/component may also have failed. Very often the triac is not the only casualty. Check for burnt/open resistors and damaged copper tracks around that section.

4. Confirm the pump itself is the correct type Make sure the replacement pump matches the original spec and connector arrangement. An incorrect pump can confuse diagnosis.

5. Consider the module as the likely fault If the pump works on a direct 230V supply, wiring is sound, and the machine still won’t deliver proper power to the pump during drain, the control module is the main suspect. On these Hotpoints, module repair or replacement is often the practical fix.

If you want to narrow it down further, post clear photos of both sides of the PCB around Q011 and the pump connector area.

WhitegoodsHelp AI