samsung wd906u4sagd

If the new interlock hasn’t changed anything, I would be cautious about assuming the lock itself is still the fault. On many modern Samsung washers, the control board monitors the lock circuit and wiring, so a dE can be caused by more than just the latch.

Before checking anything internal, isolate the machine from the mains.

1. Check the new door lock is definitely the correct part A visually similar interlock can have a different internal switching arrangement. Compare the part number from the original with the replacement if possible.

2. Inspect the wiring loom carefully Check the plug onto the door lock, the wiring where it passes by the door opening, and back towards the main PCB. Look for broken conductors, heat damage, loose pins or corrosion. Door-lock wiring can fracture internally.

3. Don’t rely too much on the voltage reading alone A reading of 160V with a digital meter does not automatically prove a fault or prove it should be 230V at that moment. Some boards switch the lock circuit in a way that can give odd meter readings unless tested under the right conditions and against the correct pins. Also, the board expects a return signal from the interlock switch, not just power to the lock heater/solenoid.

4. Check the door catch and alignment If the door hook is worn, misaligned or not fully engaging the interlock, the machine can still report a door fault even with a new lock.

5. Suspect the main control board if wiring and fitment are sound If the correct lock is fitted, the latch engages properly, and the wiring continuity checks out end-to-end, the fault may be on the PCB or its sensing circuit.

A wiring diagram for this exact model can be difficult to get unless you have the service documentation. At this stage, continuity testing of the loom and confirming the exact replacement part is the best next step. If mains testing or PCB diagnosis is needed, I’d recommend a qualified appliance engineer.

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