No error code but not heating the water Samsung WW91J5446EW
We have had this washing machine about three years and it's been okay but it has suddenly stopped heating the water. The machine carries out a cycle as normal and does not generate an error code.
A Samsung authorised engineer has been and says the element is okay, and to be honest he was a bit flummoxed with the lack of an error code. His only suggestion is to change the PCB but no guarantee that it will solve the problem. Given that the cost of changing the PCB is halfway to a new machine it doesn't seem worth it.
Any other suggestions as to what we could check/try first.
What is experience of changing the PCB - worthwhile or an expensive risk?
Thanks in anticipation.
1 Answer
If the wash completes normally but never heats, and the heater itself has already tested OK, the fault is usually in the heater control circuit rather than the element itself. The lack of an error code does happen on some Samsungs, so it does not automatically mean the PCB is definitely at fault.
Before checking anything internal, isolate the appliance from the mains.
1. Confirm it really is not heating Run a 60°C cotton wash with a small load and check the door glass after 20–30 minutes. On many machines the glass should feel noticeably warm. Eco programmes can heat very slowly, so avoid using those for testing.
2. Check the NTC temperature sensor Even if the heater is sound, a faulty or drifting NTC can stop heating without always flagging a fault. On many machines it is fitted into or next to the heater. It should be tested with a meter for sensible resistance and for change as temperature changes.
3. Inspect wiring and connectors Check the wiring from PCB to heater and sensor, especially for loose plugs, overheated terminals, damaged loom, or corrosion. A poor connection at the heater relay circuit can cause exactly this symptom.
4. Check whether the PCB is actually sending power to the heater This is the key test. If the machine calls for heat but no voltage is sent to the element, the relay or track on the PCB may be faulty. Sometimes the relay can be replaced by a competent board repair specialist rather than fitting a complete new PCB.
5. Be cautious about replacing the PCB on spec If no proper live test has confirmed the board is not switching the heater on, replacing it is an expensive gamble. It can cure it, but I would not recommend it purely as a guess.
If you are not confident with meter testing, get an experienced appliance engineer to check heater circuit voltage, NTC readings and wiring continuity first. Any live electrical testing should only be done by a qualified engineer.
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Safety first — read before actioning advice
Never work on a live appliance
Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.
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