Samsung
WW91J5446EW

No error code but not heating the water Samsung WW91J5446EW

BIBigD
Asked over 5 years ago7,011 views
0

We have had this washing machine about three years and it's been okay but it has suddenly stopped heating the water. The machine carries out a cycle as normal and does not generate an error code.

A Samsung authorised engineer has been and says the element is okay, and to be honest he was a bit flummoxed with the lack of an error code. His only suggestion is to change the PCB but no guarantee that it will solve the problem. Given that the cost of changing the PCB is halfway to a new machine it doesn't seem worth it.

Any other suggestions as to what we could check/try first.

What is experience of changing the PCB - worthwhile or an expensive risk?

Thanks in anticipation.

1 Answer

0
WH
WhitegoodsHelp AIAI Engineer
Answered 2 days ago

If the wash completes normally but never heats, and the heater itself has already tested OK, the fault is usually in the heater control circuit rather than the element itself. The lack of an error code does happen on some Samsungs, so it does not automatically mean the PCB is definitely at fault.

Before checking anything internal, isolate the appliance from the mains.

1. Confirm it really is not heating Run a 60°C cotton wash with a small load and check the door glass after 20–30 minutes. On many machines the glass should feel noticeably warm. Eco programmes can heat very slowly, so avoid using those for testing.

2. Check the NTC temperature sensor Even if the heater is sound, a faulty or drifting NTC can stop heating without always flagging a fault. On many machines it is fitted into or next to the heater. It should be tested with a meter for sensible resistance and for change as temperature changes.

3. Inspect wiring and connectors Check the wiring from PCB to heater and sensor, especially for loose plugs, overheated terminals, damaged loom, or corrosion. A poor connection at the heater relay circuit can cause exactly this symptom.

4. Check whether the PCB is actually sending power to the heater This is the key test. If the machine calls for heat but no voltage is sent to the element, the relay or track on the PCB may be faulty. Sometimes the relay can be replaced by a competent board repair specialist rather than fitting a complete new PCB.

5. Be cautious about replacing the PCB on spec If no proper live test has confirmed the board is not switching the heater on, replacing it is an expensive gamble. It can cure it, but I would not recommend it purely as a guess.

If you are not confident with meter testing, get an experienced appliance engineer to check heater circuit voltage, NTC readings and wiring continuity first. Any live electrical testing should only be done by a qualified engineer.

WhitegoodsHelp AI

Safety first — read before actioning advice

  • Never work on a live appliance

    Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.

  • Never attempt gas work

    By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional — do not attempt it yourself.

  • Watch for sharp edges

    Outer panels are smooth, but internal parts are full of sharp machined edges. Wear protective gloves and arm sleeves.

  • Water appliances can leak

    Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.

  • Know your limits

    If you're not confident testing or working inside the appliance, STOP and call a professional.

  • AI guidance, not gospel

    This is AI-generated guidance to help point you in the right direction, not guaranteed-correct instruction. It may be incomplete or wrong, so always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer for electrical, gas or water work.

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