Samsung Ecobubble UC and dC error fixed
Hi, I have a WW80J5555FW/EU, 2018-ish, that started having 'power loss' UC errors during washes. Then it wouldn't start any cycles - dC 'door' error every time. Weirdly I could get the drain pump to run by unplugging the water level sensor (at top of machine), but otherwise no activity.
So I replaced the door interlock (£10 eBay) and the control board PCB (£55 eBay) - but no change... dC... dC... dC...
On the eve of getting it taken away and replaced with a Bosch I decided to check the drain pump was functional and found its power connectors were loose, really wobbly, bearing in mind it's a 240V circuit. So I reseated those a few times and it instantly fixed the dC 'door' error. Unhelpful code right there!
The new PCB can stay in the machine because some components on the original one looked like they'd been hot at some point.
Hope this helps someone.
Solution Summary
AI-generated from this discussion
This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
Samsung WW80J5555FW/EU showing UC and dC errors traced to loose drain pump connectors
- The problem
- A Samsung WW80J5555FW/EU washing machine began showing UC 'power loss' errors during washes, then would not start any cycle and repeatedly showed dC 'door' errors. The drain pump would run when the water level sensor was unplugged, but otherwise there was no activity.
- Likely cause
- Loose power connectors at the drain pump were the strongly supported cause. The discussion suggests this poor connection was upsetting the machine and causing misleading UC and dC fault indications.
- What fixed it
- The drain pump power connectors were found to be loose and wobbly. Reseating those connectors restored normal operation and stopped the dC error. The door interlock and control PCB had already been replaced, but this made no difference, so those parts were not confirmed as faulty.
- Checks to try
- Observed UC errors during washes
- Observed repeated dC error when trying to start cycles
- Drain pump ran when the water level sensor was unplugged
- Door interlock replaced with no change
- Control board PCB replaced with no change
- Drain pump power connectors found loose and wobbly
- Reseating the drain pump connectors immediately cleared the fault
- Parts or tools mentioned
- Door interlock
- Control board PCB
Safety: The loose connection was on a 240V circuit. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
1 Answer
Thanks for coming back with the fix — that’s genuinely useful, and it makes technical sense even though the fault code was misleading.
On some Samsung washers, a poor connection elsewhere in the circuit can cause odd behaviour and completely inaccurate fault indications. A loose drain pump connection could certainly upset the control board enough to throw UC/power-related faults and then refuse to start with a dC/door error.
For anyone else with similar symptoms on a Samsung, the sensible checks would be:
1. Isolate the appliance from the mains before removing any panels or touching wiring.
2. Check the drain pump connections closely Look for loose spade terminals, heat damage, discolouration, melted plastic, or signs of arcing. If the connectors are slack, they should really be tightened or replaced rather than just pushed back on repeatedly.
3. Inspect the pump itself Check the pump coil resistance, impeller condition, and whether there’s any water ingress onto the terminals.
4. Check the wiring loom Especially from pump to main PCB and from door lock to PCB. Tug gently on each connector and look for broken conductors near plugs.
5. Inspect the PCB carefully Any browned areas, dry joints, or overheated components are worth noting, particularly around relay and pump-drive areas.
6. Don’t assume the error code is the failed part As your case shows, a dC error did not mean the door interlock was actually at fault.
A very helpful update, and it may save others from replacing good parts unnecessarily. If any wiring or 240V connectors are heat-damaged, I’d strongly recommend proper repair by a qualified engineer.
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This answer was generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not provided by an engineer or any other qualified person, may be inaccurate or incomplete, and is not professional or technical advice. Do not rely on it. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before carrying out any electrical, gas or water work. Use is entirely at your own risk. See our full Terms of Use.
SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE ACTING ON THIS GUIDANCE
Never work on a live appliance
Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.
Never attempt gas work
By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional. Do not attempt it yourself.
Watch for sharp edges
Outer panels are smooth, but internal parts have sharp machined edges. Wear protective gloves and arm sleeves.
Water appliances can leak
Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.
Know your limits
If you are not confident testing or working inside the appliance, stop and call a professional.
AI guidance, not guaranteed
This response is generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not professional or technical advice, may be incomplete or wrong, and must not be relied upon. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before any electrical, gas or water work.
This is general information only and is not professional advice. The WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant is not an engineer and is not qualified. See our full Terms of Use.
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