Solved
Bosch
Error Code F21

Bosch Classix 6 F21 fault code (brushes replaced) but still does not operate (relay clicking periodically)

BRbriscaF1
Asked almost 5 years ago 4,739 views
0

Hi all,

I've had this machine for some time, maybe 10 years or so.

I replaced the brushes some time ago as they were worn out and the machine stopped working the other day "after making a noise when spinning." It may have also tripped the house RCD.

When I got to it, there was an F21 error on it, which I believe means the motor is not operational (won't spin or maybe no current?)

I've replaced the brushes and spun the motor by hand; the brushes were in contact with the commutator OK.

Reset the F21 and put the machine onto spin.

The machine drains but then a relay clicks about every 30s for about 1-2s, which I imagine is it attempting to start the motor spinning but it does not turn.

If I leave the machine for 5 mins or so, it'll continually do this clicking. If I try on a freshen up, the machine fills but the clicking occurs with no drum movement. The motor and drum are free to turn.

I've had a meter on the exposed brush connections and there is no 240V when the relay is operating or not.

I suspect that something upstream is faulty - maybe the control board (dry joint or track blown off), relay contact etc.

What I don't understand is why there is no F21 fault code again if turning the motor on results in 0 speed.

Any ideas on what to do next?

I'm already thinking of replacing the machine given that it's old - don't really want to be spending 90 quid on a control board etc if it may not fix the problem.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Solution Summary

AI-generated from this discussion

This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.

Bosch Classix 6 showing F21 and motor not running after brush replacement

The problem
A Bosch Classix 6 washing machine showed F21 after making a noise on spin. The motor would not run: the machine drained and filled as expected, but the drum did not move and a relay was heard clicking periodically. The motor and drum were reported free to turn. The brushes had already been replaced and the F21 fault reset, but the fault remained.
Likely cause
The strongest diagnosis in the thread is motor contamination or repeat brush wear caused by non-genuine replacement brushes, with carbon dust inside the motor possibly having tripped the electrics and left the motor inoperative. Another suggested possibility was an open-circuit motor thermal cut-out near the brushes. The exact failed component was not confirmed.
What fixed it
Accepted advice was to suspect the replacement brushes if they were non-genuine, and check for heavy carbon dust contamination inside the motor. A further suggestion was to check whether the motor thermal cut-out was open circuit. No confirmed repair steps or part replacement outcome were posted.
Checks to try
  • F21 fault code was present and then reset
  • Machine drained and filled but drum did not turn
  • Relay was heard clicking periodically
  • Motor and drum were free to turn by hand
  • Voltage was reportedly checked at the exposed brush connections and no 240V was seen
  • Possible motor thermal cut-out near the brushes was suggested for continuity/low ohms check
Parts or tools mentioned
  • Motor brushes
  • Multimeter
  • Motor thermal cut-out

Safety: Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.

Cause identifiedGenerated 6 Aug 2026 · AI summaries can make mistakes — read the full thread below.
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2 Answers

Accepted Answer
0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered over 4 years ago

Hi. If you replaced the brushes with non-genuine ones they could have worn down again and deposited loads of carbon dust inside the motor. That can cause the motor to trip the electrics followed by it no longer working.

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.
1
KD
KDSmith
Answered almost 5 years ago

I've had experience with earlier versions of these motors

The fault your experiencing could be due to the thermal cutout being open circuit (it's installed in this motor), it's in the white plastic fitting near the brushes and looks like a small silver rectangular tab, it should read low ohms ie a short.

If your brushes were very badly worn and the brush copper contacted the commutator it will cause the thermal overload to pop open permanently, result dead motor

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