Hot fill top loader
So every washing machine I’ve had I’ve basically killed, I do 3 loads of washing a day on average. Current machine came with 11 year warranty and it’s had a new drawer (fair enough) and now will be on its second drum replacement plus other stuff (I don’t know washing machine internals) and it’s just turned 3 years old.
this machine was just over 1k and hoped it would last longer but no lol I’ve checked I’m not overfilling, using too much detergent etc etc but I think I’m just wearing them out fast.
so looking at a top loader in the hope it will last me longer, issue is hot fill. I’ve read instructions but it says to have hot water at 49c but my hot water tank is set at 60c, will this destroy the machine being too hot? If I can’t use my hot water with it I’ll look elsewhere at other semi commercial machines.
Thanks
1 Answer
If the machine is specified for a hot fill up to 49°C, I would not assume a 60°C cylinder supply is safe just because it’s “only a bit hotter”. Some top loaders tolerate true domestic hot water, but others use valves, hoses and plastic parts that are only rated to the maker’s stated limit.
1. Check exactly what the manufacturer means by “hot fill 49°C”. - If the manual says “maximum inlet temperature 49°C”, treat that as a hard limit. - If it says the machine mixes water internally or only uses hot on certain cycles, that still doesn’t mean a 60°C supply is acceptable.
2. Consider the real temperature at the tap. - A cylinder set to 60°C does not always mean 60°C arrives at the washing machine after pipe losses. - Measure the hot tap nearest the appliance with a thermometer after running it for a minute or two. That will tell you the actual inlet temperature.
3. If it is above 49°C, don’t connect it directly unless the manufacturer approves it. - You may need a thermostatic blending/mixing valve set to 49°C or below. - Get the appliance maker to confirm in writing if possible.
4. On longevity, three loads a day is heavy domestic use. - That won’t necessarily “kill” every machine, but it will age bearings, suspension, seals and pumps much faster. - A top loader may or may not last longer; build quality matters more than loading style. - If you really do that volume continuously, a proper semi-commercial machine is worth considering.
5. Also check the cause of the drum replacements. - If it’s bearing failures, look at spin speeds, floor stability, and whether the machine is repeatedly doing unbalanced spins. - If it’s inner drum damage, bra wires, coins, hard items and overloading by weight can all contribute even if the drum doesn’t look “too full”.
If you need to inspect pipework or fit a mixing valve, isolate the appliance from the mains first, and use a qualified engineer for any mains, gas, plumbing alterations, or sealed refrigeration work. I’d be inclined to choose based on confirmed inlet temperature limits and expected duty cycle rather than assuming a top loader will automatically last longer.
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