Solved
Bosch

Bosch WM drains ok, begins to spin but stops

RERedsavina
Asked about 4 years ago 5,807 views
0

Hi, have a Bosch front loader, wab24260gb/09. Drains ok and begins it's spin cycle but after 2 seconds of speeding up it stops, skips cycle, tries again and then stops (Jumps spin cycles and ends programme) Found a kink in waste hose but nothing bad. Changed Brushes and pressure switch sensor but still the same. I checked all the hoses and filter are clear and can blow through them ok . Same results with empty or half load. Springs and shocks look fine. Should I be looking at door lock or PCB? Thanks all, Mick

Solution Summary

AI-generated from this discussion

This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.

Bosch WAB24260GB/09 surges into spin then stops, likely motor speed feedback fault

The problem
Bosch WAB24260GB/09 drained normally but would only attempt to spin for a couple of seconds before stopping, skipping parts of the cycle and ending early. The same behaviour happened on wash and spin programmes, including with an empty or half load. The drum turned freely by hand.
Likely cause
Most strongly supported diagnosis was loss of motor control caused by the tacho feedback circuit, most likely the tacho coil, tacho magnet, or wiring between the motor and PCB. A PCB fault was mentioned as possible, but not confirmed. The accepted reply said the door lock could not explain this because the machine was otherwise starting and operating.
What fixed it
The advised route was to diagnose the motor speed feedback circuit rather than guess parts. The tacho magnet and coil were visually checked and found present and not loose. A continuity/resistance check on the tacho coil was suggested, followed by checking wiring from the motor plug back to the PCB. The exact repair was not completed; the owner decided to replace the machine instead of pursuing further diagnosis or a motor/PCB repair.
Checks to try
  • Waste hose checked and a kink found
  • Brushes replaced after wear was noted
  • Pressure switch sensor replaced
  • Hoses and filter checked clear
  • Drum confirmed to spin freely by hand
  • Motor connectors and pins checked secure
  • Tacho magnet and tacho coil visually checked and not loose
  • Resistance across tacho coil measured at about 22 ohms with intermittent jumps to 50, 60 and 100 ohms
Parts or tools mentioned
  • Carbon brushes
  • Pressure switch sensor

Safety: Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.

Replacement recommendedGenerated 15 Aug 2026 · AI summaries can make mistakes — read the full thread below.
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10 Answers

Accepted Answer
0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered about 4 years ago

Hi. You are suspecting lots of parts that it can't possibly be. It's a really bad idea to just guess at parts and fit them. For example if you suspect the carbon brushes are worn you need to take them out and look at them to see if they are actually worn before ordering new ones.

Door lock just locks the door and starts the washing machine so if it was faulty then nothing at all would work.

Is the fault only related to spin cycle? Does it do the wash and spin OK?

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.
1
RE
Redsavina
Answered about 4 years ago

Hi Andy, old brushes had worn away about 70% but were shiney and ok. You’re right, I didn’t check them prior. On a wash cycle it fills with water and drains ok but again doesn’t spin properly. Starts to spin fast and then motor shuts off right away. It slows and then skips cycle. So on a wash it’s not turning either ( The drum spins freely by hand) The 12minute spin cycle tries 3 times to spin and is over in 40 seconds. I’ve just been running the spin programme to test it. Motor Connectors and pins all secure. A little sooty but assume carbon from brushes and wipes off. No blockages. It was stored for 8months as we renovated house but was ok last 3 weeks. Trying to avoid new WM as brassic after new kitchen☺️ Thanks for the feedback.👍 Mick

0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered about 4 years ago

Hi. If the motor spins fast (surges) instead of a slow controlled turn, and then stops, that sounds like it's lost control of the motor. This can be caused by the tacho coil or magnet, or potentially a pcb fault. Normally though, these days if the tacho coil or magnet fail it should cut the motor but some may still do the surge and stop behaviour.

Have a look at this article to understand how the techo coil and magnet work. The most common cause is when the magnet comes loose or broken or drops off. If it isn't that I wouldn't recommend speculatively replacing any parts - especially the pcb.

If this isn't what it's doing please explain a bit more for me.

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.
0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered about 4 years ago

Actually this article might be better, but read them both tacho coil

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.
1
RE
Redsavina
Answered about 4 years ago

Cheers Andy, just home and had a quick look. Magnet and tacho coil are where they should be and not loose. It is a surge like attempt to spin , like someone revving a car. Short vid attached. I think I’m in over my head so prob need a pro in! Thx for the great advice pal🙏😉

IMG_3136.MOV

0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered about 4 years ago

Thanks for the video. Yes that's exactly what I suspected. There's a loss of control over the motor. If the tacho cool and magnet look OK you'd need to do a continuity test on the tacho coil. However, they have a very high reading that almost looks open circuit. If it is open circuit then it could be that. After that it's the connections to the tacho coil on the motor plug, and from the plug to the pcb.

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.
0
RE
Redsavina
Answered about 4 years ago

Hi Andy, I'm only getting 22 ohms resistance across the tacho coil pins. That was a pretty steady reading but had a few intermittent jumps upto 50,60 and 100. Connections to the tacho coil on the 6pin motor plug are good. I haven't checked plug to the pcb yet. Cheers, Mick

0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered about 4 years ago

It's a long time since I tested one. I just remember they were usually very high resistance stopping just 5 mm short of open circuit on my mega. Essentially they are very long thin wire wrapped around. The only faults I ever had on them were when they went open circuit. Occasionally you may have one that goes open circuit when you move the connections but generally they would just go open circuit. It was also extremely rare to find any that were faulty because they are not subject to any movement, or high current, so they were a very reliable part. Overwhelmingly, the most common cause of problems in this area was a loose tacho magnet or broken tacho magnet.

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.
1
RE
Redsavina
Answered about 4 years ago

Thx Andy. I think we'll bit the bullet and replace. Not seeing tacho sold seperately (Not 100% it's tacho) so for the cost of a whole motor may as well replace with new machine. it's done 13 years hard graft. Great website- very helpful and very knowledgeable. I learnt a few things anyway! Much appreciated

0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered about 4 years ago

Hi, yes you can at least be happy in the knowledge that you had a good look and you are not throwing it away because of some easily fixed problem. There's only so much you can do without the knowledge, experience and training.

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.

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