LG F8068QDP direct drive washing machine - drum not spinning properly
I hope this video tells the story: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8L5ySXen68
It started last weekend, I put the washing on, came back hours later and it was stuck, water in the machine. Moved the machine out to make sure the drain hose wasn't blocked (it wasn't), left the clothes to dry in the sun, then tried again this weekend and same thing. This time I caught it before it gave up. As you see in the video, the drum wants to spin but can't (maybe a couple of cm in either direction).
The tub does spin freely by hand.
I've searched the web endlessly but I'm no closer to a solution. It can't be carbon brushes because this type of motor (direct drive) uses an inverter, not brushes. It can't be the drive belt because there isn't one. I can't find a service manual online.
Where do I go from here? I'd really rather not have to throw it out.
Solution Summary
AI-generated from this discussion
This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
LG F8068QDP drum only rocks slightly and will not spin
- The problem
- The LG F8068QDP washing machine stopped mid-cycle with water left inside. On retry, the drum only moved a couple of centimetres back and forth instead of spinning. The drum turned freely by hand, so no obvious mechanical seizure was reported.
- Likely cause
- The strongest diagnosis given was a motor control/feedback fault on the direct drive system, with the hall sensor / position sensor highlighted as a common suspect. A drain issue was also suggested to rule out first because retained water can prevent spinning. A loose rotor, damaged stator wiring, or the main control PCB were mentioned as other possibilities, but none was confirmed.
- What fixed it
- Recommended actions were to first check the drain path, then try an empty drain/spin cycle. If the fault remained, inspect the direct drive rotor fixing, stator area and wiring connections, with the hall sensor identified as an early suspect. If those checks did not identify the fault, the control PCB was the next suggested area. The exact repair was not confirmed in the discussion.
- Checks to try
- Drain hose checked by the owner and reported not blocked
- Drum/tub spins freely by hand
- Suggested to clean and check the pump filter and impeller
- Suggested to run an empty drain/spin cycle
- Suggested to inspect rotor bolt tightness
- Suggested to inspect stator windings and wiring plugs
- Parts or tools mentioned
- Hall sensor / position sensor
- Main PCB / inverter-control board
Safety: Isolate the washing machine from the mains before internal checks. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
1 Answer
From what you describe, the motor is trying to “index” the drum a little each way but not getting properly away. On an LG direct drive, that usually points more towards a motor/control/feedback issue than anything mechanical, especially if the drum turns freely by hand.
Before checking anything internal, isolate the washing machine from the mains.
1. Check for a drain problem first If it still has water in it, many machines will refuse to spin properly. Clean the pump filter, check the pump impeller turns freely, and make sure the drain hose and sink spigot are clear. If it drains strongly, move on.
2. Try a spin cycle empty Run a drain/spin with no laundry in it. If it still only rocks a few cm each way, that helps rule out load balance or an overloaded drum.
3. Inspect the rotor and stator On LG direct drive models, remove the rear cover and check the large rotor fastening bolt is tight. A loose rotor can cause odd jerky movement. Also inspect the stator windings and wiring plugs for burning, loose connectors, or damaged wires.
4. Check the hall sensor / position sensor A very common fault on LG direct drive machines is the hall sensor on the stator. If the control board cannot read motor position properly, the drum may just twitch backwards and forwards. This is one of the first parts I’d suspect here.
5. Consider the main PCB If the sensor and motor wiring are sound, the inverter/control board becomes the next suspect.
If you’re not confident with electrical testing, it’s worth getting an engineer in, as live testing and PCB diagnosis are not DIY-safe. Any mains electrical work should be left to a qualified engineer.
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This answer was generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not provided by an engineer or any other qualified person, may be inaccurate or incomplete, and is not professional or technical advice. Do not rely on it. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before carrying out any electrical, gas or water work. Use is entirely at your own risk. See our full Terms of Use.
SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE ACTING ON THIS GUIDANCE
Never work on a live appliance
Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.
Never attempt gas work
By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional. Do not attempt it yourself.
Watch for sharp edges
Outer panels are smooth, but internal parts have sharp machined edges. Wear protective gloves and arm sleeves.
Water appliances can leak
Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.
Know your limits
If you are not confident testing or working inside the appliance, stop and call a professional.
AI guidance, not guaranteed
This response is generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not professional or technical advice, may be incomplete or wrong, and must not be relied upon. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before any electrical, gas or water work.
This is general information only and is not professional advice. The WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant is not an engineer and is not qualified. See our full Terms of Use.
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