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Miele
WKG120

Miele WKG120 Twindos leaking intake

RAradh
Asked almost 2 years ago 6,464 views
0

Hi there, I have a similar issue to the one in this thread : Miele W570 leaking from water path seal between water inlet valve and mechanism behind dispenser - UK Washing Machine Repair Questions - Washing machine Forum

This is how the gasket looks after disconnecting it

I took it off to clean it and applied the following silicon grease to both the contact areas; eg on the input side on the left, and around the outside of the rubber on the right.

https://www.toolstation.com/arctic-hayes-silicone-grease/p52744

When I put it back together again, the rubber gasket slipped all the way back to the protrusion where the nozzle meets the valve attachment. When I slid the dispenser housing nozzle over the rubber gasket it no longer engages with the two stubs on the nozzle that indicate, I assume, how far the gasket should wrap around the end of the nozzle when seated correctly.

Now, when I ran the cycle again, there was more of a clear leak here, but that was with the input stopcock fully open. When I turn the stopcock to almost close the input, it looks like the grease is doing the job, and I can't see any sign of a leak.

Does anyone have any experience with the wkg120? It feels like either the gasket is too short for the distance between the input nozzle and the tray nozzle. Or, the input valve is somehow fitted slightly too far away from the dispenser tray housing. I imagine my mistake was to fit the gasket back on to the input nozzle first, and then when I pushed the tray nozzle on, it pushed the gasket too far back on to the input nozzle. I might try disassembling again, and fitting the gasket snuggly to the tray nozzle first, and then sliding that assembly back over the small input nozzle.

I have ordered a new gasket so am hoping that, along with the lower water pressure will do the job.

Any advice appreciated!

(Trying to avoid a £250+ replacement of the whole dispenser housing, which I think isn't the actual cause of the leak; I had an local non meile engineer come out who simply found the leak and then didn't attempt to clean or re-sit the gasket)

Solution Summary

AI-generated from this discussion

This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.

Miele WKG120 leak at intake-to-dispenser gasket joint

The problem
A Miele WKG120 washing machine was leaking from the seal between the water inlet valve and the dispenser housing. After the original gasket was removed for cleaning and refitted with silicone grease, it appeared to slide too far back on the inlet nozzle and no longer sat against the locating stubs on the dispenser nozzle. The leak became more obvious at full inlet pressure, but was not visible when the stopcock was almost closed.
Likely cause
Most strongly supported diagnosis was a poor seal fit at the connector, possibly from a distorted or swollen gasket, excess grease allowing the seal to slip during assembly, or misalignment. A cracked or worn plastic stub was suggested as another possibility if the new gasket did not cure it. A cracked dispenser housing was considered less likely but not ruled out.
What fixed it
Recommended action was to isolate the appliance, inspect both plastic spigots for cracks, residue, scoring or misalignment, and refit using a new gasket with no grease or only a very light smear. The suggested method was to seat the gasket on the dispenser housing nozzle first, then carefully insert the valve spigot while keeping the gasket in position. Part-closing the stopcock was not recommended as a repair. The exact repair result was not confirmed in the discussion.
Checks to try
  • Leak worsened with stopcock fully open
  • Leak not visible when stopcock was almost closed
  • Gasket had slipped back on the inlet nozzle after refitting
  • Suggested inspection for hairline cracks, limescale, soap residue, scoring and alignment on both plastic spigots
Parts or tools mentioned
  • New gasket
  • Silicone grease

Safety: Isolate the appliance from the mains and turn off the water before dismantling. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.

Cause identifiedGenerated 17 Aug 2026 · AI summaries can make mistakes — read the full thread below.
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1 Answer

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WH
WhitegoodsHelp AIAI Assistant
Answered 3 months ago

It does sound more like a sealing/fit issue at that connector than a cracked dispenser housing, especially if reducing the inlet flow makes it behave. On these Mieles, a slightly distorted or swollen seal can be enough to leak under full mains pressure.

1. Isolate the washer from the mains and turn off the water before taking it apart again.

2. Inspect both plastic spigots very closely: - look for hairline cracks - check for limescale, soap residue, or scoring - make sure neither side has been forced out of alignment Even a tiny split in the dispenser inlet stub can leak only when the stopcock is fully open.

3. Fit the new gasket dry or with only the lightest smear of silicone grease. Too much grease can let the seal slide backwards as you assemble it, which sounds like what happened here.

4. Your idea is sensible: seat the gasket onto the dispenser housing nozzle first, making sure it sits at the correct depth, then offer the valve spigot into it carefully without pushing the gasket off position.

5. Check alignment before tightening anything. If the inlet valve or dispenser is sitting twisted, the joint can be under sideways strain and the gasket will never seal properly.

6. Don’t rely on partly closing the stopcock as a fix. It may reduce the symptom, but the joint should hold at normal mains pressure.

7. If the new gasket still leaks, the next question is whether one of the plastic stubs is slightly cracked, worn, or the valve/dispenser mounting is displaced. That would narrow it down far better than replacing the whole housing on guesswork.

If you find damage to any mains-water or internal electrical parts, or need deeper strip-down work, it’s best handled by a qualified appliance engineer.

WhitegoodsHelp AI

WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant

This answer was generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not provided by an engineer or any other qualified person, may be inaccurate or incomplete, and is not professional or technical advice. Do not rely on it. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before carrying out any electrical, gas or water work. Use is entirely at your own risk. See our full Terms of Use.

SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE ACTING ON THIS GUIDANCE

  • Never work on a live appliance

    Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.

  • Never attempt gas work

    By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional. Do not attempt it yourself.

  • Watch for sharp edges

    Outer panels are smooth, but internal parts have sharp machined edges. Wear protective gloves and arm sleeves.

  • Water appliances can leak

    Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.

  • Know your limits

    If you are not confident testing or working inside the appliance, stop and call a professional.

  • AI guidance, not guaranteed

    This response is generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not professional or technical advice, may be incomplete or wrong, and must not be relied upon. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before any electrical, gas or water work.

This is general information only and is not professional advice. The WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant is not an engineer and is not qualified. See our full Terms of Use.

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