Solved

Washer Motor Repair

DUduffsparky
Asked over 15 years ago 7,843 views
0

Hi All,

I've been trying to repair a Hitachi FW133 from the 1980's (Servis 600 series and possibly Electra something or other). The motor bearings need replacing but I can't get one of the bearings off because I can't get the drive pulley off. Any one know how to get the pulley off the main drive motor shaft. Any motor info/details that may have been stuck on the motor have long since gone, so if any one could suggest a manufacturer/supplier that might help.

I assume the pulley is either shrunk or threaded onto the rotor shaft as I can not see any evidence of splines or woodruff key fitting.

If the pulley is shrunk on, does any one know the sort of temperature required to get it off without cooking the rotor windings.

If the pulley is threaded on, I need to establish if it has is a right-hand or left-hand thread. Presumably the pulley would tighten in the opposite direction to the rotation of the rotor when the motor is under the heaviest load, but when is that? Perhaps the position and angle of the brushes could help to identify pulley thread direction? See diagram at link below.

http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream

Kind regards.

Solution Summary

AI-generated from this discussion

This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.

Hitachi FW133 washer motor bearing repair completed without removing pulley

The problem
On a Hitachi FW133 washing machine from the 1980s, the motor bearings needed attention, but one bearing could not be removed because the drive pulley on the motor shaft would not come off. The poster could not identify whether the pulley was shrunk or threaded on.
Likely cause
The accepted reply said the pulley was most probably not designed to be removed and the armature was likely designed without bearing replacement in mind. It was also noted that, because the motor runs both ways, a threaded pulley direction was not relevant.
What fixed it
The accepted advice was that the pulley was probably not intended to come off and that complete armatures may once have been supplied as spares, with bearing sizes potentially obtainable from a specialist bearing supplier. The poster then carried out a workaround repair: the inaccessible bearing was refurbished in place by removing its shield, cleaning and regreasing it, and fitting a replacement shield from the worn bearing at the other end. A new bearing was fitted at the opposite end, and the commutator was re-faced before reassembly.
Checks to try
  • Pulley could not be removed from the motor shaft
  • Bearing shield was removed from the pulley-end bearing
  • Bearing was cleaned and regreased
  • New bearing fitted at the opposite end
  • Commutator was re-faced
  • Motor reassembled and refitted to the machine
  • Machine completed at least two washes after repair
Parts or tools mentioned
  • 2 bearings (only 1 used)
  • Grease
  • Replacement bearing shield taken from the other worn bearing
  • Commutator re-facing service

Safety: Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.

Confirmed fixedGenerated 6 Aug 2026 · AI summaries can make mistakes — read the full thread below.
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3 Answers

Accepted Answer
0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered over 15 years ago

I'm not familiar with this model but if the drive pulley is fixed onto the armature shaft it's most probably not designed to come off. It's highly unlikely to be designed with replacing the bearings in mind although if it was made in the 80s it was common for new armatures to be available as spares (which came with bearings already pressed on).

It's likely the parts are obsolete now even if they were available as spares once - although if you get the sizes from the bearing a specialist bearing company can often supply them.

The problem is I can't see how you would get the pulley back on even if it was removed. Basically the armature has been designed not to allow the bearings to be replaced.

The motor revolves both ways so a thread isn't relevant.

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.
0
DU
duffsparky
Answered over 15 years ago

Problem solved, for now at least.

As I couldn't get the bearing off the pulley end (coz I couldn't get the pulley to come off) I decided to kill-or-cure the old unit; at worst I'd have to buy a new armature (if available) or motor. So I refurbished the bearing in-place by popping off the bearing shield (which ended up destroyed), cleaned the bearing, regreased it, fitted a shield taken off the worn bearing from the other end, fitted a new bearing on the other end and voila a nice smooth spinning armature. I also got the commutator re-faced before re-assembling the motor, which is now refitted back in the machine and on its second wash; not bad for £20 total cost (£8.57 for 2 bearings [only one used] £10 for commutator re-facing and the rest for a finger full of grease. Mind you the time it has taken I could have bought several new motors if I'd been at work.

Regards.

0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered over 15 years ago

That's lateral thinking. Nice one. If the bearing was just dry then as long as the seal works and you used the right type of high melting point grease (I think it's LM?) it may prove to be a good repair.

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.

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