Siemens Xl1600 Not Spinning

Yes, it sounds like the brushes were not the cause of the motor not running unless by any chance something in the pcb got damaged when it shorted out although with an RCD it should have tripped out before any damage to components occurred. To be honest I would think you need an engineer to diagnose it now.

I wrote an article about worn Hotpoint carbon brushes diagnostics which contains photos and general advice relevant to most carbon brushes. There is a photo of a brush that has stopped making contact with the armature, which may be of interest to anyone trying to troubleshoot washing machine motor faults who suspect the carbon brushes .

Thanks, both brushes were still shiny and looked to have still been just about in contact with the comm, although they had worn down so the copper braid in the centre of them was also in contact, the machine tripped out the RCD on the mains when it first malfunctioned, so i guess it may well be something else other than the motor,

Sorry Giles: The problem could be anything from something you've inadvertently done or not done right during the repair to another fault on the motor or elsewhere on the machine to a simple dodgy connection. What I would say is if the carbon brushes were worn down, but both had shiny surfaces where they touched the armature then they may not have had anything to do with the fault. At least one of them should have been sooty and covered in a rough charcoal-like coating where it had been arcing and sparking before finally breaking contact. If not then although they were clearly ready for replacement they will not have been the cause of the motor not running.

A motor with 7 pins will usually have two that have continuity through the armature and brushes. Find them by testing for continuity between each brush and all the pins. Once you have found which two pins go to both brushes you should get a reading between them. I can't give the exact reading but there shouldn't be much resistance.

Two of the other pins should be for the tacho coil, which is a small coil at the en of the armature shaft. You can trace which 2 pins go to the tacho coil. That should have a very high resistance between them, maybe 200 Ohms or more. The remaining 3 should be the main field coil with resistance between all 3.

Anybody got any ideas?

Thanks

No the motor doesn't spin no matter what cycle you select, pump etc seems to run OK but once the timer gets to where the drum should start turning it goes straight to 0

Thanks