Fitting Hotpoint Carbon Brushes
I have a hotpoint aquarius 900 WM61 brought from new in 1997. The washing machine has never been a problem up until a few months back when it would stop working and not spin the clothes. I rectified this
problem by putting in new brushes as the old ones had completley worn down in the motor.
Everything was fine up until the middle of last week when I noticed that the machine (I took off top cover whilst on) was sparking heavily from the motor (especially on long spin) and at one point even tripped the electicity switch at home and cut out our electric.
I took out the brushes and they had melted the plastic at the base of the brushes where they had been sparking badly. I took them out and replaced them with new ones again and put on a wash. They were still sparking but very minor from where the brushes meet the armature.
The only problem is that I am getting bad sparks from (appears to be) inside the armature. Sometimes you can smell the motor burning and will cut out on a high spin or will not spin as much as it should do and hence not clear the water from the machine (very soapy suds).
My question is, as the motor is 6 years old now and with 2 children it does takes quite a pounding, do I need a new motor?
Any help would be greatly appreciated as the washing is already piling up!
Solution Summary
AI-generated from this discussion
This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
Hotpoint Aquarius 900 WM61 motor sparking after brush replacement
- The problem
- Hotpoint Aquarius 900 WM61 washing machine stopped spinning properly. The owner previously fitted new motor brushes after the originals wore out. Soon afterwards the motor sparked heavily, especially on long spin, tripped the household electrics, and the brush holders showed melted plastic. A further new set of brushes still sparked, with burning smell and poor or cut-out spin leaving water and suds in the drum.
- Likely cause
- The accepted reply says that if the brushes were fitted correctly, excessive sparking points to a faulty armature, with replacement motor often being the practical repair because armatures are rarely supplied separately. A supported alternative explanation was brushes not releasing or sliding freely in their holders after fitting, causing arcing and melting. A partial sump hose blockage causing spin under excessive load was also suggested as another possible cause.
- What fixed it
- Check that the replacement brushes were fitted and released correctly and that they move freely in the holders. Also check for a partial sump hose blockage. If brush fitting is correct and sparking remains excessive, the accepted diagnosis is a failed armature, so replacement of the armature or more likely the complete motor is recommended. Continued use was warned against because it could damage the motor thermal overload cut-out or the main PCB.
- Checks to try
- Observed heavy sparking from the motor during spin
- Brush holders found with melted plastic at the base
- Replaced brushes twice
- Advised to check brushes move freely in their holders
- Advised to check brushes were properly released from the transit retaining tab
- Suggested check for partial blockage in the sump hose
- Parts or tools mentioned
- Carbon brushes
- Armature
- Replacement motor
- Thermal overload cut-out (TOC)
Safety: Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
3 Answers
If you are fitting the brushes correctly, and getting excessive sparking, it's likely to need a new Armature. Fitting an armature would make the motor as good as a new motor, because once replaced, all moving parts inside the motor are new. However, these days it's rare for a washing machine armature to be available as a spare part, many supply only a replacement motor.
If you continue to run the washing machine, it may well blow the TOC in the field coil or damage the main PCB.
Need Professional Help or Spare Parts?
Many thanks for you reply. Can you advise why the brushes I took out had melted, and the new ones I had put in have started to do the same. Is this to do with the armature on its way out?
Could I have put the brushes in wrong? I thought it just a case of popping them back in, they can only go in one way! Also the TOC in the coil field - What is this? Once this has gone I take it the motor will stop altogether.
Thanks
It's the sparking that causes this burning. You are right to say they won't physically go in wrong on these motors, but the brushes are held retracted inside their holders (for protection in transit) and so there are some potential problems. When fitting them, you need to prize away the little tab on the brass bar at the side so that they are released. Two possible problems associated with this are -
releasing them before they are inserted into the motor
not releasing them at all, or not releasing them properly
Releasing them before inserting is OK, I sometimes do it myself, but with the brush sticking out it's possible for a brush to ride over the armature when inserted, or even snap, which causes excessive sparking and premature failure. (it doesn't sound like this is your problem though)
The second problem is to do with the little tab holding the brush retracted inside its holder. If this isn't prized fully away, then although it releases the brush, when the brush is inserted into the motor and butts up to the armature, as it naturually pushes back inside the holder it can stick there. Then, when the first millimitre or so of brush is worn away after several washes, the brush (which is spring loaded and pushing against the armature) can't move up and you get sparks jumping across the gap. It can cause the plastic on the brush holder to melt and failure occurs. Take the brushes out and double check that the brushes move freely in and out of its holder.
Another possible explanation for excessive sparking like this is if there's a partial blockage in the sump hose causing the pump to be unable to empty enough water out, but allowing enough out to go into a spin. The washing machine can then start spinning with too much water inside which puts it under strain.
The TOC (thermal overload cutout) will blow if excessive sparking or slowing of the armature causes the motor to overheat. It's replaceable on older Hotpoint motors, but a further unwanted complication and expense. As you guessed, once blown the motor will go dead, but of course a dead motor doesn't necessarily mean the TOC's gone. To test this, you need to test continuity between the blue wire from the brush and the tag on the motor and the yellow wire from the brush to the ajacent tag in the motor.
Related:
Hotpoint & Creda carbon brushes FAQ (diagnostics and fitting advice)
Fitted Hotpoint or Creda carbon brushes and motor still doesn't work
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