John Lewis Wm 1405
Hello,
My 6 year old JLWM 1405 stops washing in the middle of a programm,most of the time but sometimes works fine. It will spin with an empty drum but won't spin when loaded,only with very little load it would spin. It starts trying to spin -no water in the drum,but then it seems like that it detects it would be out of balance and stops. I would like to check the out of balance switch or the part which causes the machine to stop. Does anyone know how to do that? Many thanks
Shakes
Solution Summary
AI-generated from this discussion
This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
JLWM 1405 stops mid-cycle and will not spin properly under load
- The problem
- A John Lewis JLWM 1405 washing machine was reported to stop part way through a programme most of the time. It would spin with an empty drum, but would not spin with a normal load and only sometimes with a very small load. The drum was described as trying to spin with no water present, then stopping as if the load was being judged out of balance.
- Likely cause
- The accepted reply said this is more likely to be a balancing or acceleration problem rather than a separate out-of-balance switch fault. The strongest suggested causes were worn motor carbon brushes or worn suspension/shock absorbers. Bearing/drum support wear or poor motor/tacho connections were also suggested as possibilities, but no fault was confirmed.
- What fixed it
- The advised approach was to check that the appliance is level and stable, try a balanced test load, and assess drum movement by hand for excessive bounce, roughness or play. Internal inspection of the motor plug and wiring was also suggested only if competent. No completed repair was documented, so the exact fix was not confirmed. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
- Checks to try
- Check the machine is level and solid on the floor
- Try a spin with 2–3 towels rather than a single heavy item
- Press the drum down by hand and see whether it is overly bouncy or sits low
- Turn the drum by hand and listen for rumbling or roughness
- Lift the drum at the front edge and check for excessive up/down play
- Inspect motor plug and wiring for loose or burnt connections if competent
- Parts or tools mentioned
- Motor carbon brushes
- Shock absorbers/suspension parts
Safety: Isolate the appliance from the mains before any internal inspection. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
1 Answer
Hello,
What you describe is more often caused by the machine struggling to balance or accelerate the load, rather than a separate “out of balance switch” fault. On many washing machines there isn’t a simple standalone switch to replace. More commonly it’s down to worn suspension parts, motor/carbon brush issues, or the control sensing poor drum movement.
Before inspecting anything internal, isolate the appliance from the mains.
1. Check the basics first Make sure the machine is level and solid on the floor. If it rocks even slightly, it can abort spin with a load. Also try a spin with 2–3 towels, not one heavy item, as single items can trigger imbalance.
2. Check the drum movement Open the door and press the stainless drum down firmly by hand, then let go. It should move smoothly and settle. If it feels very bouncy, crashes about, or sits low, the shock absorbers/suspension may be worn.
3. Check for bearing or spider problems Turn the drum by hand. Listen for rumbling and check for roughness. Lift the drum at the front edge; excessive up/down play can point to worn bearings or a damaged drum support.
4. Consider motor carbon brushes If it spins empty but struggles under load, worn motor brushes are a strong possibility on this age/type of machine. They can allow light running but fail under heavier demand.
5. Check tacho/motor connections If you are competent, inspect the motor plug and wiring for loose or burnt connections. A poor tacho signal can also make spin erratic.
There usually isn’t a simple imbalance switch to test in isolation on these. If the machine is stopping mid-programme as well as refusing loaded spin, I’d especially suspect worn motor brushes or suspension parts. If you’re not confident with internal checks, it’s best to get a qualified appliance engineer in. Any mains-related work should be left to a properly qualified person.
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This answer was generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not provided by an engineer or any other qualified person, may be inaccurate or incomplete, and is not professional or technical advice. Do not rely on it. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before carrying out any electrical, gas or water work. Use is entirely at your own risk. See our full Terms of Use.
SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE ACTING ON THIS GUIDANCE
Never work on a live appliance
Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.
Never attempt gas work
By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional. Do not attempt it yourself.
Watch for sharp edges
Outer panels are smooth, but internal parts have sharp machined edges. Wear protective gloves and arm sleeves.
Water appliances can leak
Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.
Know your limits
If you are not confident testing or working inside the appliance, stop and call a professional.
AI guidance, not guaranteed
This response is generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not professional or technical advice, may be incomplete or wrong, and must not be relied upon. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before any electrical, gas or water work.
This is general information only and is not professional advice. The WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant is not an engineer and is not qualified. See our full Terms of Use.
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