John Lewis Wm 1405

Hello,

What you describe is more often caused by the machine struggling to balance or accelerate the load, rather than a separate “out of balance switch” fault. On many washing machines there isn’t a simple standalone switch to replace. More commonly it’s down to worn suspension parts, motor/carbon brush issues, or the control sensing poor drum movement.

Before inspecting anything internal, isolate the appliance from the mains.

1. Check the basics first Make sure the machine is level and solid on the floor. If it rocks even slightly, it can abort spin with a load. Also try a spin with 2–3 towels, not one heavy item, as single items can trigger imbalance.

2. Check the drum movement Open the door and press the stainless drum down firmly by hand, then let go. It should move smoothly and settle. If it feels very bouncy, crashes about, or sits low, the shock absorbers/suspension may be worn.

3. Check for bearing or spider problems Turn the drum by hand. Listen for rumbling and check for roughness. Lift the drum at the front edge; excessive up/down play can point to worn bearings or a damaged drum support.

4. Consider motor carbon brushes If it spins empty but struggles under load, worn motor brushes are a strong possibility on this age/type of machine. They can allow light running but fail under heavier demand.

5. Check tacho/motor connections If you are competent, inspect the motor plug and wiring for loose or burnt connections. A poor tacho signal can also make spin erratic.

There usually isn’t a simple imbalance switch to test in isolation on these. If the machine is stopping mid-programme as well as refusing loaded spin, I’d especially suspect worn motor brushes or suspension parts. If you’re not confident with internal checks, it’s best to get a qualified appliance engineer in. Any mains-related work should be left to a properly qualified person.

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