Jlwm1202 Not Filling E10
This is a strange one, as the fault first appeared just months after buying the machine, but before the repair man appeared, it just resolved itself. Now, 12 months out of guarantee, it has done it again. The strange thing is that if you pour water into the soap dispenser drawer, after approx 2L the machine starts to fill itself again. It only does this on wash though, not rinse. What would cause it to suddenly fill with the introduction of 2L of water manually added? We have looked at the water inlet valve, but surely this would either work or not? All suggestions are welcome here!
Solution Summary
AI-generated from this discussion
This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
JLWM1202 E10 not filling on wash, likely inlet valve/valve feed fault
- The problem
- A John Lewis JLWM1202 washing machine showed E10 and would not fill correctly on wash. The machine would begin filling again only after about 2 litres of water were poured manually into the dispenser drawer. The poster also confirmed that fabric conditioner was not being flushed through and that no water came from the right-hand side inlet. The issue did not occur in the same way on rinse.
- Likely cause
- The strongest diagnosis in the discussion is a fault with one section of the water inlet valve assembly, or its water supply/control circuit, affecting the wash-fill path. The accepted reply explained that the initial wash fill may not be occurring, so the cycle waits until manually added water allows it to progress. An open-circuit solenoid was also suggested as a possibility.
- What fixed it
- Recommended action was to check the water supply and electrical connections to the relevant inlet valve, and to continuity-test each solenoid coil to identify whether one valve was open circuit. The exact repair carried out was not confirmed in the thread.
- Checks to try
- Observed that manually adding about 2 litres of water into the dispenser drawer allowed filling to start again
- Confirmed the fault affected wash behaviour, not rinse in the same way
- Observed that fabric softener was not flushing through
- Observed that no water came from the right-side inlet
- Advised to check valve connections
- Advised to test each solenoid with a continuity meter for open circuit
- Parts or tools mentioned
- water inlet valve
- continuity test meter
Safety: Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
4 Answers
It sounds like a possible problem with one of the valves or water supply to it. On a wash cycle many washing machines draw water from a specific valve for several seconds. This water is designed to not wash any detergent into the machine because it runs into the sump hose under the tub. Once a pint or so of water has gone into the sump hose a plastic ball inside the sump hose floats up and seals the water inside the hose. Then the washing machine flushes water from another valve into the detergent compartment to wash the detergent into the drum where none of it will now go into the sump hose and be wasted.
If the first valve doesn't get energised or there is no longer a water supply to it then the wash cycle may stick. Check the connections, the nearest valve connector doesn't look pushed in properly.
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Sorry, I forgot to add a pic of the water inlet valve. We can't get this to release from the housing. There are no screws or visible clips! !
Hi there, thank for the advice. This certainly ties in with what started it all, i.e. The machine wouldn't flush the fabric softener through and still doesn't. No water ever comes from the right side inlet. Apologies for the confusion over the pic; we had already started removing it, so the connector had been pulled out. We are just checking that the circuit is okay, as a colleague has a metre to check this. The hardest problem we have encountered is how to remove the part! There are no screws, mechanical fixings or clips! What do you think about the problem though? Does this new info confirm your initial thoughts?
Test each solenoid with a continuity test meter to see if any of the valves are open circuit.
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