Beko WDB7426R1B tripping out on Drying cycle. Faults E10 & C41

Just been testing the machine now, and It tripped off.

Straight away, I switched it back on, entered diagnostic mode - and no codes!?!

Switched it off and back on, entered diagnostic mode - E10 and C41 are back!

I'm starting to think main board? Any ideas welcome...

Also, is there anywhere I can get a repair manual for this?

TIA,

Mike.

OK - when I say "Tripping" - I mean the washing machine stops altogether - screen goes dark, and I have to cycle the control through "off" to get it back on again. This isn't the usual end of cycle - this is a "dead stop". Does an earth fault do this?

If so, I'll break out the Megger and have a look. The prime candidate would be the dryer heater, as it has most definitely been repeatedly run hot to the point of activating the over temp trip.

Yes, the sensor was the one specified by Beko - from a Beko parts distributor, and the dryer activity seems far more sensible now - the heat is cycled on and off every few minutes, whereas it was just on until the over temp trip caught it before.

Any idea what the two fault codes are?

Hi there. Thanks for the clarification, yes tripping means tripping the electrics as in blowing the fuse. So the issue that you have won't benefit from a Megger.

I only have a few Beko error codes and they all begin with E. Unfortunately unless you pay a subscription to all white goods manufacturers you don't get access to them and I can't justify the cost myself.

The only thing I can say is that if a washer-dryer's drying section overheats it can be caused by a lack of cold water trickling into the condenser at the back, the fan not running round, the air being restricted somewhere in the system by a build up of fluff, or the condensed water unable to run into the drum due to a blockage - or even overloading with laundry. It's possible for a sensor device to go faulty but it's more often one of the other things. At the end of the day if it's not something fairly obvious I would be hesitant to get too much further involved.

OK thanks for your help.

The obvious causes are what I checked first - The water flow is OK - The air flow isn't blocked - The drain works perfectly. Dryer definitely not overloaded - we've been testing with two t-shirts - way under the normal load.

The "door sensor" as Beko call it (and is used to regulate the dryer heater outlet temp) was definitely faulty and causing problems (Heater wouldn't turn off and the high temp trip was tripping). Now I've replaced it, it's regulating the temperature fine. But the whole machine "clunks" off, and I have to pass through the OFF position on the rotary selector to get it back on.

It doesn't seem to be overheating now, temperatures seem sane.

As an aside, I ran an insulation test on the dryer element (I've got a "crank handle" type Megger insulation tester, so I ran a test between the heater casing and one of the heater element terminals). When cold - no response from the meter at all. But when hot and damp, I get a small reading - 500 Mohm. It's definitely worse when hot and damp.

I'm trying to get the machine to trip out so I can check it again.

I Might concede defeat and call a guy out.

Frustrating about the repair manuals - as an automotive engineer, they are easy enough to come by.

Wow a crank handle Megger. Is it black bakelite by any chance? I remember one of those when I first started repairing them in 1976.

Not that old. the MOD use/used them (as it needs no batteries) certainly up to 2014 (Last cal date) the model number is Megger BR4

I recently bought it from an MOD clearance place.

It's 250 volt, has a decade box, can run as a wheatstone bridge, and do a "Varley" and "Murray" test that I really should research sometime!