Indesit wixxe127 problems
Hello, I'm Having trouble with my indesit wixxe127, it wouldn't start the cycle then display "door" , pulled the door lock off and it was burned at the connector so I have replaced the lock with a new one and rewired the connections but it still has the same problem, if I bypass the door lock the red padlock lights up and it starts up for about 1 second then stops, is this likely a faulty main pcb?
Solution Summary
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This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
Indesit WIXXE127 showing 'door' fault traced to failed PCB triac after door lock damage
- The problem
- Indesit WIXXE127 would not start a cycle and displayed 'door'. The door lock connector had burned, so the lock was replaced and rewired, but the same fault remained. The machine would only attempt to start briefly before stopping.
- Likely cause
- Most strongly supported diagnosis is a failed PCB triac associated with the door interlock circuit, likely damaged when the door lock/interlock failed and arced. Marks around other PCB components were discussed, but these were not confirmed as faulty.
- What fixed it
- The original poster identified and replaced a failed triac on the main PCB, believed to be an ACS series device, and reported the machine was working again. Later posts from other users also reported success after replacing the door latch/connector and the same triac. Exact board position and full original part marking were not clearly documented in the main solution.
- Checks to try
- Original door lock connector found burned
- Door lock replaced and wiring repaired
- Machine still showed 'door' fault after lock replacement
- PCB removed and visually inspected for heat/soot marks
- Continuity on PCB tracks checked
- Failed triac identified on the PCB
- Replacement ACS108-6SA triac ordered and fitted
- Parts or tools mentioned
- door lock
- door latch
- door lock connector
- main PCB triac
- ACS108-6SA triac
Safety: Do not bypass the door interlock. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
12 Answers
It's quite normal for soot marks and black marks around resistors. They get hot and attract dust. If it comes off it's probably not indicating a fault. If something is actually burnt though that's different.
Need Professional Help or Spare Parts?
I've removed the pcb and there seems to be some evidence of heat around some of the resistors, diodes, capacitors and the tracks, (see pics) but all of them seem to test fine and there's continuity along the tracks, if this pcb is the problem is there any other components I should test before fitting a new one?
Hi Andy thanks for your reply, I think your right, might just be belt dust, on closer inspection I think I've found the problem... a triac seems to have failed but the part number is missing, I can only make out "acs" the rest is gone so I'm going to try a acs108-6sa, solder it in and hope for the best...if that doesn't work then I'll try a new pcb.
Individual components of appliance pcbs are not avaialable. Someone who knows about the individual parts might be able to source a good replacement but they aren't meant to be repaired. This company however does repair and refurbish them QER repairs.
Need Professional Help or Spare Parts?
Maybe not from the machine manufacturers but they don't make all the components on there pcb's, Triacs, resistors, diodes, capacitors etc are readily available, all you need is the part number or know what spec you require. Most of the components on this board are manufactured by a company called st microelectronics, they make triacs with part numbers beginning with acs, so Ive ordered one, not sure if it will fix the problem but for £2 inc postage compared to the price of a new pcb it's definitely worth a shot, it should arrive tomorrow so I'll let you know how it goes.
I've got a working machine again! Here's the failed triac.
Excellent work Gus. Most people wouldn't have the knowledge to diagnose and repair a washing machine pcb - even experienced engineers. As I said manufacturers do not supply spares or technical information and do not want them repaired. You need to have knowledge of these components and how to test them and be able to adequately remove and fit them into the board. Plus you need to track down alternative sources of the parts. Nice work.
Need Professional Help or Spare Parts?
Hi Gus, ive had the same problem, which acs108-6sa part was it is. There seems to be 3 of them on the board, im trying to locate the one it is to replace. Cheers Andy
Just signed up to thank gus for his post, had same issue and before reading this I had bypassed the interlock with no joy, interlock obviously shorted and took out the triacs on board purchased new of eBay for 2.38 gbp and soldered to board and fixed machine
Attached picture of which one blew
Thanks for sharing your experience and photos Michael. Yes, very inadvisable to by-pass the door interlock without being sure how to do it I have an article on door locks which explains how they usually work and to by-pass them you have to connect the correct 2 wires. If you get it wrong - bang! It's good to see you managed to rescue the situation, most people would have had a scrap machine on their hands.
Need Professional Help or Spare Parts?
Hi thanks for reply
I put a non conductive spacer in interlock to force contacts together, I did not link terminals on loom
The triacs on the board obviously blew when the door interlock failed (major arcing in armature housing)
My wife thought slamming door would fix it
Hi Everyone
Thanks for all the info, I followed the threads and I also now have a running machine after replacing door latch and connector and triac as described.
Cheers
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