Bosch WAE28368GB/56 No Motor Rotation
Problem :- No motor rotation, no error code.
Fault history:-
Machine left washing overnight, following morning full of water, no power to washer socket (breaker tripped).
Restore power, ERROR F16, clear error, start button gives two beeps no other response.
Motor brushes very worn and burnt - replaced, checked for other possible component or wiring faults- none found, replaced door interlock, still start button two beeps.
Checked power module and found PCB track going to door interlock pin 2 vaporised - replaced power module.
Current problem:- machine now fills and drains, presume it also heats water but not checked, no motor rotation of any kind and no error code.
Suspect from beginning that motor might have caused original problems, have tried to measure motor windings ETC but not sure what I should see.
Motor is Bosch Part No 00145678 with 7 pin connector.
Motor Readings:- Pins 1-2 25ohm, Pins 5-6-7 1ohm (any combination), Pins 3-4 no apparent reading, I might have pin numbers reversed.
Not tried to measure any motor voltages as its a bit difficult.
At the moment my money is on the motor.
Your thoughts will be most welcome.
Solution Summary
AI-generated from this discussion
This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
Bosch WAE28368GB/56 washing machine fills and drains but motor will not rotate
- The problem
- After an overnight wash the machine was left full of water and the breaker had tripped. After power was restored it first showed F16, then after clearing that fault the start button only gave two beeps. The motor brushes were found very worn and burnt, the door interlock was replaced, and a damaged PCB track to the door interlock led to replacement of the power module. After that, the machine would fill and drain but the motor would not rotate and no further error code was shown.
- Likely cause
- The strongest evidence points to a failed motor thermal cut-out in series with one brush, leaving the motor open circuit. The original electrical fault may also have damaged the motor, so repair of the existing motor was considered too risky.
- What fixed it
- Continuity testing with the machine unplugged was advised rather than voltage checks. Further checks identified that pins 3 and 4 were the brush circuit and that pin 4 had a Klixon 15AM thermal cut-out in series which was open circuit. The decision taken was to replace the motor rather than attempt motor repair. The thread does not confirm the final result after fitting a new motor.
- Checks to try
- Motor resistance readings taken at the 7-pin connector
- Continuity testing of brush, field coil and tacho circuits was advised
- Brush circuit identified as pins 3 and 4
- Thermal cut-out in series with brush on pin 4 found open circuit
- PCB track to door interlock pin 2 found vaporised
- Door interlock replaced
- Power module replaced
- Parts or tools mentioned
- Motor brushes
- Door interlock
- Power module
- Bosch motor part no. 00145678
- Klixon 15AM thermal cut-out
- Continuity test meter
Safety: Do not attempt live voltage testing on the motor. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
3 Answers
Hello PubGuy. Don't bother trying to measure voltages, it's potentially dangerous and not something engineers do anyway. We use continuity test meters with machine unplugged. Generally speaking you should get readings across the motor pins around the type you are getting. There's normally only 2 or 3 for the field coil, 2 for the carbon brushes across the armature and 2 that are very high resistance across the tacho coil. Depending on the type of meter used you may need to adjust the range to be able to get a reading from the tacho coil.
If the motor fuses the electrics it can always potentially damage something in the PCB. The problem you have is you don't know if the motor is still electrically OK or not without testing it with an insulation test meter (which uses 500 v DC). However, if there was a significant short to earth it should still trip the electrics.
Never discount the possibility something went wrong with the repair ie. poor connection in motor plug(s) after being disturbed, or brushes somehow not put in right. To test the motor take off the motor cover (if necessary) and test continuity down the 2 wires in the motor plug that connect to the carbon brushes. Then identify the wires that are left to work out which are the field coil and which are the tacho coil. The tacho coil wires are usually very thin. Test continuity across the field coil wires and the tacho coil wires. If you have continuity the motor should run. It may not run well, could even cough and splutter or even fuse the electrics but it should run. If you have continuity across all the wires but it doesn't run the chances are it's because of something else.
The door lock if faulty should stop everything working except maybe the control panel lights.
I have a lot of advice on this specific fault but it can only be fairly general Washing machine drum not turning
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Hello Andy
Did some more digging the brushes go to pins 3 & 4 of the connector, Pin 4 has a thermal cutout (Klixon 15AM) in series with brush and is open circuit.
This cutout should auto reset so either excess current has blown it or it also has a none resettable failsafe.
Considering the other damage done originally repairing this motor would be too risky so it's a new one.
Thanks for your time.
Thanks for the update. I can't say there can't be any resetting ones but all the TOCs inside motors I've seen are 1 shot. If they blow they are gone.
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