Beko WDJ723023W washer dryer - Dryer not heating
I have a combined Beko WDJ723023W washer dryer. When I use the dryer setting, the drum spins but there is no heat so my clothes stay damp. This used to happen with a previous washer dryer I had and to fix that, I would take off the top and there was a red button I could press that would click. I've opened the top and the back of the Beko, but cannot find any such button. Please could anyone help?
Solution Summary
AI-generated from this discussion
This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
Beko WDJ723023W washer dryer tumbles but produces no heat on drying
- The problem
- On the drying programme, the drum rotates but there is no heat, so clothes remain damp. The user was looking for a manual reset thermal cut-out similar to one seen on a previous machine, but could not find one on this Beko WDJ723023W.
- Likely cause
- The accepted advice was that this type of washer dryer commonly uses non-resettable one-shot thermal overload cut-outs rather than a reset button. A failed or tripped drying thermal cut-out was the strongest suggested cause. Other possible causes mentioned were overheating due to poor airflow/fan issues or a faulty heating element, but these were not confirmed.
- What fixed it
- Recommended action was to check continuity of the drying thermal overload cut-outs and, if they test sound, check the heating element for continuity/open circuit. The discussion also stressed that if a thermal cut-out has operated, an underlying overheating fault should be considered and not ignored. No exact repair carried out by the original poster was documented.
- Checks to try
- Continuity test of the thermal overload cut-outs
- Continuity/open-circuit test of the heating element
- Visual identification that the wash-cycle sensor shown was not the drying heater cut-out
- Consideration of fan/airflow overheating causes
- Parts or tools mentioned
- Thermal overload cut-outs (TOC's)
- Heating element
- Continuity meter
Safety: If a thermal cut-out has operated, there may be an underlying overheating fault. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
2 Answers
Hello there, it's not common to be able to reset these thermal cutout devices. They aren't even a good idea really because someone could keep resetting one that is constantly tripping, and therefore ignoring a fault that is causing the washer dryer to overheat.
The majority of washer dryers use one shot TOC's (thermal overload cutouts). You can test the continuity with the continuity meter. However, these TOC's often look extremely similar to a thermostat. Thermostats usually have heat sensitive crystals inside them and their resistance will change as the temperature increases.
It's always possible that a device has failed for no reason, but the school of thought should be that if one of these thermal overload cutout (fuses) has tripped, then there's a very high chance that something overheated to dangerous levels.
Read my article here, which describes all the possible causes of a washer dryer not heating on the drying cycle
Need Professional Help or Spare Parts?
Hi there @washingmachine0800 - in this picture this thermostat / sensor is only for the wash cycle only so has no bearing on the tumble drying heat part of things. - the 2 sensors at the top are cut outs for the tumble drying.
I know on Tumble driers I have fixed before that those thermal cut out's with a red resettable plastic 'pin' on the TOC's have been on dryers with a coil type resistive element like these :
If the thermal cutouts failed or were not fitted and the fan stopped or not enough cold air blowing over the heating elements or get covered in a load of fluff/lint like this they would burn out and possibly cause a fire!
Your washer dryer in your machine looks to have the same element at the top there in the heating box as the same kind of element you would find on a electric cooker that is inside the oven or top grill part and (without cutting out) would just glow red (like a element in a grill) - so maybe that has just the 2 normal thermal cutouts (non resettable) at the top in the box .
I'd whip the terminals off them TOC's and check the continuity across them first as its likely i think to be one or both of them at fault possibly, then if they have continuity, the actual heating element for continuity or open circuit. - Things i can think of tripping the TOC(s) is maybe fan not blowing over the element or the element itself working .. but overheating past the allowed thermal parameter allowed by the PTC
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