Hotpoint F7 E2 Fault
Washer starts fills then sits there doesn't spin and fault code F7 E2 appears. Stripped machine, tested motor windings all ok and balanced. Heater elements test ok.
Motor is brushless, not sure where tachometer is on this machine.
Machine is 2.5 years old and would like to fix rather than scrap.
Any help on where to go with testing from here, everything looks ok. Just need advice on where to look next. Minimal information online for this fault code. Thanks.
Solution Summary
AI-generated from this discussion
This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
Hotpoint NM11 946 BC A UK N fills then stops with F7 E2
- The problem
- The washing machine starts and fills, then sits idle without spinning and shows fault code F7 E2. The owner had already stripped the machine and reported that the motor windings tested OK and balanced, and the heater element also tested OK. The motor is brushless.
- Likely cause
- The discussion most strongly supports a motor drive fault rather than a heater fault. Likely areas mentioned were the motor wiring loom/connectors, the built-in speed feedback/hall sensor side of the brushless motor, or the main control/inverter board. A drain or pressure-system issue was also suggested as something to rule out before spin.
- What fixed it
- Recommended checks were to confirm the drum turns freely by hand, inspect belt condition and tension if fitted, inspect the motor plug and wiring loom for loose pins, heat damage or broken wires, and continuity-check the wiring from motor to main PCB. The motor connector and built-in speed feedback circuit were highlighted as suspects even if the windings test correctly. The main control/inverter board should be inspected for burnt components, cracked solder joints or heat damage. Drain pump, filter, pressure system and pressure hose were also recommended to be checked. No confirmed repair was posted.
- Checks to try
- Motor windings tested OK and balanced
- Heater element tested OK
- Check drum turns freely by hand
- Check belt condition and tension if belt-driven
- Inspect motor plug and wiring loom
- Continuity check from motor to main PCB
- Inspect main control/inverter board for damage
- Check pump operation, filter, pressure system and pressure hose
Safety: Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
1 Answer
Hi. On this Hotpoint/Indesit platform, if it fills then just sits there before bringing up a motor-related fault, the likely suspects are usually the motor drive system rather than the heater. On a brushless motor there often isn’t a separate tachometer coil like older brushed motors had, because speed feedback is usually built into the motor via hall sensors/electronics.
Before checking anything internal, isolate the appliance from the mains.
1. Check the drum turns freely by hand Make sure there’s no stiffness, graunching, or signs the tub/drum is dragging badly. Also check the belt condition and tension if belt-driven.
2. Inspect the motor plug and wiring loom carefully Look for loose pins, overheating, corrosion, broken wires, or damage where the loom flexes. A continuity check from motor to main PCB is worthwhile.
3. Check the motor connector and hall/speed feedback circuit On these brushless motors, speed sensing is usually part of the motor assembly. If windings test OK, the fault can still be with the internal sensor section or inverter drive control on the PCB.
4. Inspect the main control/inverter board Look for burnt components, cracked solder joints, or heat damage around the motor drive area. If the machine fills but never properly drives the motor, the board is a strong suspect.
5. Check for drain issues before spin attempts If it cannot register empty, it may never move on properly. Check pump operation, filter, pressure system, and pressure hose for blockage.
Given your checks so far, I’d be leaning towards wiring, motor feedback, or the control/inverter board rather than the heater. If you need certainty, the next step is usually live diagnostic testing, which is best left to a qualified engineer. Any mains testing, PCB diagnosis, or sealed component work should be done professionally.
WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant
You may also find this guide on our main site helpful: "How to Remove Element From Washing Machine" – https://www.whitegoodshelp.co.uk/how-to-remove-heater-from-washing-machine/
This answer was generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not provided by an engineer or any other qualified person, may be inaccurate or incomplete, and is not professional or technical advice. Do not rely on it. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before carrying out any electrical, gas or water work. Use is entirely at your own risk. See our full Terms of Use.
SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE ACTING ON THIS GUIDANCE
Never work on a live appliance
Always unplug it at the mains before going near it with any tools.
Never attempt gas work
By law, gas appliances must only be worked on by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If your fault involves gas, stop and call a professional. Do not attempt it yourself.
Watch for sharp edges
Outer panels are smooth, but internal parts have sharp machined edges. Wear protective gloves and arm sleeves.
Water appliances can leak
Turn off the water supply before disconnecting any hoses.
Know your limits
If you are not confident testing or working inside the appliance, stop and call a professional.
AI guidance, not guaranteed
This response is generated automatically by the WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant. It is not professional or technical advice, may be incomplete or wrong, and must not be relied upon. Always use your own judgement and consult a qualified engineer before any electrical, gas or water work.
This is general information only and is not professional advice. The WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant is not an engineer and is not qualified. See our full Terms of Use.
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