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Candy

Candy Cm2 106-1 Problem

NINic72
Asked over 11 years ago 6,011 views
0

Hi,

I have a 2 pronged problem, a washing machine that's stopped working and girlfriend without a washing machine. Any help with the first, will solve the second!

Seriously though, I have a problem with our Candy washing machine. The model is CM2 106-1 S/N-31000921, this is an Italian model because I'm currently in Greece. The problem is the door secure light. It's constantly flashing and we can't run any progam. I've tried to contact Candy who are really not in the least bit interested. I've searched and searched and have narrowed it down to either the lock mechanism, the PBC or the motor brushes. I've had it apart, checked the wiring, they seem ok, I've taken the lock mechanism off (but still kept it wired up), there is a click from that when I try run a program, but then nothing. I've not checked the brushes yet as I was hoping for some advice from Candy on what they thought the problem could be, but like I said, they could only suggest an engineers visit. The machine is out of warranty, so not going down that route.

All I want is some advice on what part is likely to have failed so I can order a new part, fit it and get back to normality. I don't have a problem stipping it down or anything, don't have a problem buying any parts, just need to know which way to go.

Any offers of help and advice woud be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Nic.

Solution Summary

AI-generated from this discussion

This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.

Candy CM2 106-1 flashing door secure light, no programme starts

The problem
Candy washing machine CM2 106-1 would not run any programme. The door secure light was constantly flashing. The owner reported a click from the door interlock when a programme was selected, but the machine did nothing further.
Likely cause
Most strongly supported diagnosis was a faulty door interlock not sending the locked signal, despite the heater element inside it appearing to operate. However, the discussion also noted that a fault elsewhere, including the main control side of the machine, could produce the same symptom, so the exact cause was not confirmed.
What fixed it
The suggested route was to ensure the interlock was fitted and operated by the actual door catch, not tested loose, and then try replacing the door interlock if it still failed. The thread did not confirm that any part was replaced or that the machine was repaired.
Checks to try
  • Owner checked wiring and found no obvious burned or damaged wires
  • Owner observed the interlock clicking and heating/locking internally
  • Forum advice noted the machine will not work unless the interlock is connected and the door catch properly engages it
  • Owner had read the door interlock/help article referenced in the discussion
Parts or tools mentioned
  • Door interlock

Safety: Do not bypass the door interlock. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.

Cause identifiedGenerated 14 Aug 2026 · AI summaries can make mistakes — read the full thread below.
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3 Answers

Accepted Answer
0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered over 11 years ago

Hi, sorry for not replying sooner. Are you trying to run the machine with the door interlock disconnected? It won't work unless it's on and the door is shut. Have you checked this help article? Washing Machine Won’t Start which also contains help about how the door interlock works.

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.
0
NI
Nic72
Answered over 11 years ago

Hi,

Yeah, I checked that article and have searched and searched to the point of becoming nearly an expert....lol! I've got the interlock plugged in and connected, just not attached to the body/door. There is a click coming from it, but when I remove the plastic cover and expose the metal strips and manually operate it, I can see the click is just the stips heating up and locking into place. It doesn't seem to be sending a signal saying the door is locked. I'm wondering if the underneath strip has become burned out and the connection is bad. Today, I've had a good check through all the wiring and can no sign of any burned out wires anywhere. I think I might just go ahead and order a new interlock and hope that does the trick.

One question, even though this is an Italian model, will the interlock be the same as say a UK model? If you can think of any other problem it could be, I'd be grateful for any insight.

Thanks,

Nic.

0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered over 11 years ago

Hello Nic. I'm still not sure what you are doing with the door interlock disconnected. Do you mean you are manually operating it? Unless the door catch goes inside and pushes the lever back it won't work. If you are manually operating it and are sure it is operating properly but the machine is still not running then the interlock could be faulty, but it could also be a fault elsewhere on the machine. The door interlock could be working perfectly okay and passing power over to the main control module but there could be a fault elsewhere stopping the machine from running. If you check out the article about door interlocks and your interlock only has three wires which are identified you can temporarily bypass it to see if the machine starts up.

You must know exactly what you are doing though, if you connect the wrong two wires it will either blow up and cause serious damage or you will have just connected the neutral and common and tested nothing. The live and common wire can be temporarily connected to completely bypass the interlock although as I say purely as a temporary testing measure. It would be dangerous to run the machine without it interlock.

Do not guess at the wires but if one is clearly labelled live, another is clearly labelled neutral and the third C for common, then my article describes exactly how to bypass it. Otherwise you just have to try a new interlock which may or may not do the trick. Also, if the interlock doesn't have separate wires and they are all in a connection block (which is common these days) you aren't going to be able to bypass it without cutting wires which would not be a good idea.

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.

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