LG F1222TD PCB

It’s quite possible that LG used later suffix revisions as substitutes, but I would be cautious about assuming any board ending in Q or X is definitely compatible. With control boards, the full part number and the exact model variant usually matter.

1. Check the full model details from the rating plate. LG often has extra characters after the basic model, and these can affect PCB compatibility. If the machine has a longer model number than just F1222TD, use that full version.

2. Check the original PCB label carefully. Look for every number and suffix printed on the board itself, not just 6871ER1081F. There may also be a second number or software/version code that helps match it properly.

3. Compare connections and layout. If you are considering a Q or X suffix board, compare the plug positions, relay layout, and any printed configuration labels. A later revision may fit, but if connectors or programming differ it may not work correctly.

4. Be aware that some replacement boards need programming or specific configuration. Even if physically identical, some boards are supplied blank or set for a different model family.

5. If you need to source one, search the Whitegoods Help Spare Parts Shop by the full model number and the complete board number from the PCB label. https://www.whitegoodshelp.co.uk/shop/

Safety reminder, isolate the appliance from the mains before inspecting or removing any internal parts. If there is any doubt over live electrical testing or PCB replacement, it is best left to a qualified appliance engineer.

So in short, Q or X may be later revisions, but I cannot confirm they are always a direct replacement without the exact full model and all numbers from the original board.

WhitegoodsHelp AI Assistant

You may also find this guide on our main site helpful: "LG Washing Machine Error Codes" - https://www.whitegoodshelp.co.uk/lg-washing-machine-error-codes/

Hi lenny541,

I’ve had a look at our trade supplier accounts and 6871ER1081F is showing as no longer available, with no listed alternative or superseding part number against it. That’s as far as it goes on the supply side.

On the Q or X suffix boards, I’d be careful. LG suffix letters are revisions, and sometimes a later revision will drop straight in, but there’s no guarantee of that. The board may have different software, a different relay layout or be configured for a different model family, and a wrong board can leave you with a machine that fills but won’t spin, throws new error codes, or does nothing at all. Unless LG have pointed you to an official replacement part number, I wouldn’t spend money on one on the hope it fits.

I’ve looked at your board photo and I can’t see anything obvious. No burnt tracks, no scorching round the relays, no bulged capacitors. That doesn’t rule the board out, as the common failures on these are the relays, the triac side and dry joints on the underside, none of which show in a photo of the top. But it does make me want to ask the more important question.

What is the machine actually doing, or not doing? Has someone told you the PCB has failed, or is that a conclusion from the symptoms? For example:

- Completely dead, no lights, no response at all - Lights come on but nothing happens when you press start - Fills but won’t wash or spin - Shows an error code (which one?) - Trips the electrics - Pump, motor or door lock not operating

A lot of LG faults that get blamed on the main board turn out to be something else. A dead machine is often the mains filter or a broken wire, a no spin is usually the motor, stator wiring or hall sensor, and a lot of error codes point at a specific component rather than the board that’s reporting it. If you can give me the symptoms and any code, I’ll give you a better steer on whether the board is actually the problem before you go hunting for a part that’s hard to get.

Hi lenny541,

That's a much clearer picture, thanks, and I think you've found it.

Your symptoms fit a power supply failure on the main board. Completely dead, no lights, plug fuse and house circuit fine, and a burnt smell when you lift the lid. If the mains filter had gone you'd normally expect a tripped RCD or a blown fuse, and a wiring fault would usually show as scorching on the wire itself.

Looking at the photo, the black component with the yellow label towards the bottom, next to the three small capacitors, looks scorched on top and discoloured around the base, and I think there's exposed copper showing where it's burnt through. That's the switch mode power supply transformer on this board. It supplies the low voltage that runs the display, the processor and the relays, so when it goes the machine just goes dark exactly as you describe. The capacitors next to it are often cooked at the same time.

So the board is faulty, no question. The problem is we don't know why. Sometimes these transformers simply fail with age, and sometimes something else on the machine has shorted or drawn too much current and taken the power supply out with it. Without testing the rest of the machine there's no way to tell which, and if it's the latter, a replacement board would just go the same way.

Realistically, with 6871ER1081F now obsolete and no listed alternative, I think it's time for a new machine. The board date codes in your photo are 2011, so you've had around 15 years out of it, which is a fair innings for a washing machine.

The alternative would be paying an engineer to come out and find the root cause of the failure, then hunting for a used board. But when the part you'd need at the end of that is already obsolete, you'd be spending money to confirm a repair you probably can't do. I'd struggle to recommend it.

If it helps, the F1222TD was LG's entry-level 7kg 1200 spin Direct Drive machine. They don't make a 7kg any more, so the closest current equivalent is the Series 3 9kg 1200 spin, model F2X50S9TWB. Same width and height, same Direct Drive motor with the 10 year motor guarantee, and it's around £350 to £450 depending on where you buy it.

One other option worth considering. Many local repair businesses also supply new machines, and some will deliver, fit and take the old one away for a sensible price. If you use the Find an Engineer section on this site and put your postcode in, you can contact a local repairer and ask if they can supply an equivalent: https://www.whitegoodshelp.co.uk/engineers/washing-machine-repair

You'll often get a better overall deal than buying online once you factor in installation and disposal, and you've got someone local to call if anything goes wrong.

Sorry it's not better news, but at least you know where you stand rather than chasing boards that may or may not fit.