Solved

ISE 10 wm25.3 1606w Motor not working

IAIan Mac
Asked almost 8 years ago 5,893 views
0

A few months ago, the main motor on my ISE 1606w washing machine stopped working. I took the frequency motor card out, inspected it all seemed well the motor seemed to be OK. Reassembled it and it worked. It has now failed again, in the same way, only this time the fault has not gone away after I inspected it and then reassembled it.

If I put the machine into a simple programme such as Rinse with no spin and then press start the following happens

lights l1to l5 light and 4 appear on the display panel.

a short burst of inlet water

a minute of nothing , then another short burst of inlet water. The Drain pump then kicks in

after about 20 secs there is another short bust of inlet water,

then after a further 20secs the drain pump stops and lights l1 to l5 go out,

after a further 1/2 minute the 4 disappears

If I now press door unlock for about 4 secs the door clicks open and the 4 on the display reappears.

Its as if the Control unit and the motor controller are not talking to each other.

Any ideas on what I need to check?

Solution Summary

AI-generated from this discussion

This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.

ISE 10 WM25.3 / 1606W motor not running, possible connection or PCB fault

The problem
The washing machine would start a rinse programme with brief water fills and then run the drain pump, but the motor did not operate. The same fault had occurred a few months earlier and temporarily cleared after the frequency motor card was removed, inspected and refitted. On the second occurrence, refitting did not restore operation.
Likely cause
The strongest suggestion in the discussion is a poor connection or dry joint around the frequency motor driver PCB, motor plug or related connectors, because the fault previously cleared after the card was removed and refitted. Worn motor carbon brushes were also suggested as a check if this motor uses them. An exact failed part was not confirmed.
What fixed it
Run the machine’s diagnostic/test mode to look for a stored fault indication, and thoroughly inspect the motor driver PCB, motor plug and connectors for poor connections or dry joints. Check the motor carbon brushes if fitted. The exact repair was not confirmed in the thread.
Checks to try
  • Diagnostic/test mode entered with all LEDs on initially
  • Water valves operated in sequence during test mode
  • Pressure sensor observed rising from 0.48V to 1.4V as water level increased
  • Drain cycle confirmed to empty the drum
  • Electronic level sensor compared with a spare and appeared to behave the same
  • Suggested inspection for dry joints or poor PCB/motor connector contacts
  • Suggested check of motor carbon brushes if fitted
Parts or tools mentioned
  • Frequency motor card / motor driver PCB
  • Motor plug and connector
  • Motor carbon brushes
  • Pressure sensor
  • Electronic level sensor
  • Continuity test meter

Safety: Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.

Cause identifiedGenerated 14 Aug 2026 · AI summaries can make mistakes — read the full thread below.
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4 Answers

Accepted Answer
0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered almost 8 years ago

I don't know if this will work or not but try the following procedure to see if it produces an error code -

Turn off the machine at the on off switch. Then turn it back on whilst pressing and holding the start/pause/cancel button. The start LED should start to blink within three seconds. If so, you should see an error code displayed using the ready, wash, spin LEDs. A combination of these three LEDs should light up.

This definitely works for ISE washing machines but not necessarily all of them. If it does then I might be able to work out which error code it is giving by reporting which LEDs have lit up.

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.
0
IA
Ian Mac
Answered almost 8 years ago

Thank you Andy,

I've done the following opened the door, turned the power off, drained the system, and removed the soap tray.

Holding in the start button (S1) turned on the mains, I then held in the programme options button (s4) for a count of 12.

All the LEDS turned on. I think this means it has entered it test mode.

I closed the door.

I pressed the start button S1

Light L6 started to flash I think this means is progressed in test mode.

Looking inside the soap hole I saw water run from

the middle hole for 2 secs

the left hole for 2 sec

the right hole for 2 secs

Then water ran in from the left hole till there was about 30mm of water showing in the drum. Whilst this happened I monitored the pressure sensor This started at 0.48v and rose to 1.4v

the valve then shut and nothing else happened.

I pressed the start button (s1) again and the flashing lights changed to L6 and L1 and the display said END.

I think this means that the level sensor are in error, however the 1.4v seems to be about right I think,

I have independently checked the other level switch and it seems to be working OK - not sure when it should switch?

I have a spare electronic level sensor and that operates just the same.

Other things I know - there is 380v DC knocking about on the frequency motor driver card.

The drain cycle works to empty the drum.

Not sure where to go now.

0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered almost 8 years ago

Have you thoroughly checked for a dry joint or poor connections on the pcb and motor plug and connector? If a fault fixes itself after just taking a part out and refitting it would suggest a poor connection somewhere. Have you checked the carbon brushes in the motor (if fitted). I don't recommend checking voltages at any place in the washing machine. It's considered dangerous of course and appliance engineers don't do it. We test for continuity with a continuity test meter.

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.
0
FL
flannel
Answered over 3 years ago

Hi Ian, did you find a solution?

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