Solved

Washing Machine Drum Not Turning

FRfrugaldougal
Asked over 14 years ago 7,778 views
0

Hi my washing machine's drum is not turning. It fills and drains ok, but is fairly silent when it's trying to turn/spin. It's about 5 or 6 years old. Haven't checked anything so far other than the drum resistance which seems normal. From what I've read it could be the motor and/or brushes? The other thing worth noting is that it's occassionally not spun clothes very well (ie still wet)

Any help would be much appreciated

Solution Summary

AI-generated from this discussion

This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.

Candy GOFS272/L-80 drum not turning or spinning

The problem
The washing machine filled and drained normally but the drum did not turn or spin, with little noise when it should have been rotating. The poster also reported occasional poor spinning, leaving clothes wet. The machine was stated to be about 5–6 years old. No fault code or confirmed strip-down findings were provided by the original poster.
Likely cause
The discussion points to a belt-drive fault or motor brush wear as the most likely causes on Candy GOFS272/L-80 and similar machines. The accepted reply also notes pulley wheel failure as a possible cause on this model range, but this was described from the contributor’s own machine rather than confirmed on the original poster’s appliance.
What fixed it
Recommended checks were the door interlock, drain filter, drive belt, pulley wheel/centre fixing, and motor carbon brushes. For brushes, replacement was suggested if less than 5mm remained, and they should be replaced as a pair. If these checks did not identify the fault, the discussion says further electrical diagnosis would be needed by a qualified engineer. The exact repair carried out on the original poster’s machine was not confirmed.
Checks to try
  • Door interlock operation
  • Coin filter for blockages
  • Drive belt condition
  • Pulley wheel and centre bolt movement/condition
  • Motor carbon brush length and condition
Parts or tools mentioned
  • Drive belt
  • Pulley wheel
  • Motor carbon brushes
  • Torx T4 bit

Safety: Isolate the appliance from the mains before removing panels or inspecting components. Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.

Cause identifiedGenerated 13 Aug 2026 · AI summaries can make mistakes — read the full thread below.
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2 Answers

Accepted Answer
0
WH
WhitegoodshelpVerified Engineer
Answered over 14 years ago

You need to read this first, it's everything I can think of to advise on the problem of when a washing machine drum won't go round or spin

Whitegoods Help — appliance repair expert and forum host.
0
WI
wightowl
Answered over 12 years ago

Ref: Candy model GOFS272/L-80 7Kg and similar belt drive washing machines.

General approaches (for the above Candy model) for the technically adept:

If short of time:

1. Check the door interlock switch is working.

2. Remove all pets and children from the room.

3. Remove the back panel.

4. Run a light wash cycle while observing the motions of the motor, belt, pulley wheel, pulley wheel centre bolt (which normally rotates with the pulley wheel) in relation to the movement, if any, of the inner drum. Locate and replace the failing component.

If there is more time:

1. Get out the manual, or download it for reference.

2. Check the door interlock switch is working normally by observing its continuous (non-pulsing) LED on the dash. Replace if necessary.

3. Drain the machine fully and check the coin filter for blockages. On the Candy the drain and filter is located at the bottom of the front. This is supposed to be done every month. However we found only one hair clip after 22 months. Check the manual for the method.

4. Switch off the machine and UNPLUG it at the mains for safety.

5. Slide out the machine so the back is accessible.

6. Remove the back panel to view the motor, pulley wheel, and drive belt.

7. If the belt has a MultiVee construction, note its exact position on the small motor pulley wheel.

8. The Candy has an elasticated MultiVee belt which can be removed by gently pulling the left hand straight part of the belt towards you while slowly rotating the large pulley wheel clockwise. The belt will slowly turn off from the large pulley wheel. Other machines may have a drive belt tensioning system to be released to allow removal of the belt.

9. Check the belt and replace if necessary. A Candy drive belt is currently £13

10. The Candy has a chrome head bolt in the centre of the large pulley wheel.

11. On the Candy you require a Torx T4 bit to remove this bolt by turning hard counter clockwise (looking at the bolt) while holding the inner drum still.

12. Remove and examine the pulley wheel, especially for worn teeth in the centre. Replace if necessary. Note that spindle types vary and not all have teeth. A new plastic Candy pulley wheel currently costs £10.

13. Note the position and orientation of any electrical connections to the motor, and unplug them.

14. Remove the motor and place upon old newspaper on a table. If removal is problematic then carefully use a cold chisel or jemmy as a lever.

15. The Candy has a motor using two carbon ‘brushes’ which pass electricity to the rotating inner coils via a ring of copper commutators (contacts). The brushes wear out in three years or so depending on use. Brushes can also burn and become unreliable. Another type of motor is the Induction motor which has no brushes.

16. Locate the brushes pressing against the commutator ring and unscrew the brush housings.

17. Consider replacing the brushes when less than 5mm of carbon remains. Candy brushes are currently £12 each (£24 the pair, always replace in pairs).

18. Re-assemble.

19. If you still haven’t located the fault consider plugging it in and watching the components while in operation as suggested in the ‘Short of time’ routine.

20. Other causes may be electrical and are beyond the scope of this text. Electrical work should be undertaken by a qualified engineer with some indemnity insurance.

In my specific case the inner drum was not turning properly. It rotated a few inches then slipped back. The faulty component was a poorly designed 280mm diameter plastic pulley wheel driving a 500mm drum through a 16mm spindle with 16 teeth only 1.5mm deep. That is steel teeth mating with small plastic teeth. The failure occurred after one year ten months. No surprise there.

Hope this helps.

Wightowl

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