Hoover VT814D21-80 Motor Problem - But Motor Tests OK...?

You could have left the motor in situ actually on the washing machine tub itself, just make up a lead with a 3 pin plug on one end then just live, neutral to the right terminals on the motor and earth to the casing of the motor. But that will be the next best thing ordering a new motor I suppose - good luck and i hope it works for you.

Good luck. It’s a big gamble. Let us know how you get on.

Thanks again - I've seen the video which was helpful. I guess I could try powering up the motor - there's another video on YT that shows how to do this, but I didn't fancy doing that without clamping everything down and I don't really have anywhere to do that. The easiest thing is to try it with a new motor which is on order.

Usually if you know how to do it supplying the motor directly will cause it to go into a full spin. It’s a bit dicey though.

@steverob10 - error E08 though is actual 'speed Sensor' (the tacho coil at the rear of the motor) rather than the actual motor itself isnt it .

So, if the coil at the rear of the motor is working ok and not open circuit , then it wouldgo to the controller board and then through chips / microprocessor and other components I should imagine?

Is this YT video any help?

https://youtu.be/D5Aw7CBEGPI?t=100

Andy - would the motor be 230v AC 50hz single phase? , could a patch cable go directly to the motor to test the motor directly or has it got to go through a controller board?

Yes Steve that’s the problem, that particular fault in a motor doesn’t show up with a continuity meter. And you can’t detect a fault with the power supply to the motor unless you can test all the resisters, diodes and capacitors and know all the expected values.

Thanks for this - I have had the control board out: it doesn't have any big caps, and no sign of any tracks blackened, so I'm going with the faulty armature theory for now. (Just thinking: don't know how many poles there are in a motor like this, but I guess that if there was a short between the windings of two adjacent poles, you wouldn't necessarily see much with an ohmeter but it might make a difference to the efficiency of the motor which would be most noticeable as it tries to move the drum from stationary. Once the drum is revolving it has momentum so I guess the load on the motor is lower which might explain why it could keep going once I pushed it as it started but couldn't get it moving once it had stopped.) But I'll see if there is a separate capacitor somewhere.

Aye it could be a power supply problem to the motor (PCB) but the exact same symptoms can be caused by a faulty armature in the motor.

in the old days that would more than likely be a great big shiny chrome capacitor that kick started the motor - the fact its doing something to try and revolve when you give the drum a helping hand and pushing it by hand and a graunch whine sounds to me like it could be same kid of thing a motor capacitor. -

These days the capacitor(s) will be on a main board or motor control board, I think they will still be huge capacitors you could look and see if any electrolyte has leaked out of them or have burnt out or wrong OHM's measurements be careful though those big capacitors sure do hold some voltage in them even when the machine's 3 pin plug is plugged out of the wall I have got a jolt a couple of times before off them boards - you need to 'de-energise' the capacitors first before touching the boards really to be safe