BEKO WDX8543130W not drying
Hi
I have a number of questions about this, every little bit helps
Its not drying, the condenser water valve isn't operating. When its running a drying cycle there are no volts on the valve. I expected the volts to cycle on while drying and off while the pump extracts what has collected in the drum. is that right? What voltage should I see on the valve?
The control board is a gv7-2838360101 Terma_MB_G09 (both numbers read off the PCB). The valve looks like its powered via an unmarked surface mount transistor under the board. Any idea what this device is?
This is my daughters machine, she's on hols next week and will be using the washer till then. I will have the board out and swap transistor next week but need to know what it is so I can get one in advance.
Does anyone have a circuit? This board looks like it's re-populated for use in different products so a circuit for any any main board will likely provide a good clue about what the transistor might be.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
A
Solution Summary
AI-generated from this discussion
This thread was marked as solved. Here's a summary of the problem and the fix, generated from the discussion below.
Beko WDX8543130W washer-dryer not drying; condenser water valve not operating
- The problem
- On drying cycles the condenser water valve did not operate and no voltage was seen at the valve, so the machine was not drying properly. The query also concerned the likely PCB switching component for that valve on control board GV7-2838360101 / TermaMBG09.
- Likely cause
- Most strongly supported diagnosis is loss of supply to the condenser water valve or a faulty condenser valve coil. Forum replies stated the condenser valve should normally allow a constant trickle of cold water during drying, with the pump cycling separately. It was suggested the valve is likely 230V AC and PCB switching would probably be by a triac, but this was not confirmed from the thread.
- What fixed it
- Recommended checks were to identify the solenoid voltage marking, compare supply with the other fill valves if testing can be done safely, and with the appliance isolated from the mains measure valve coil resistance to see whether it is open circuit. Exact repair was not confirmed in the discussion.
- Checks to try
- Observed no voltage at the condenser water valve during a drying cycle
- Advised that condenser water should normally trickle continuously during drying while the pump cuts in and out
- Check the solenoid for its marked voltage
- Compare voltage with the other inlet valves when filling
- With the machine disconnected from the mains, check resistance/continuity of the valves for an open-circuit coil
- Parts or tools mentioned
- Control board GV7-2838360101 / TermaMBG09
- Condenser water valve solenoid
- Possible triac on the PCB
Safety: Further diagnosis should be carried out by a suitably qualified appliance engineer.
5 Answers
Hello Alec. Unfortunately you have a much better understanding of printed circuit boards than washing machine repair engineers because we are never taught anything about them. Appliance engineers are not expected to repair any PCB, only to completely replace the entire thing at great expense. This is clearly ridiculous, and surely untenable these days, but that's how it has always been.
We are not even taught how to diagnose them. We have to decide if they are faulty or not based on process of elimination eliminating all other possibilities. It's quite a fast really. There are a few people who sometimes post on here that have electronic backgrounds although most of them have usually come here to find answers themselves so I'm not quite sure how many of them monitor new posts.
Normally on a condenser washer dryer the cold water should be constantly trickling into the condenser chamber all the time it is on the drying cycle. The pump would normally just kick in and out at set periods. There wouldn't be any need to turn off the water flow because there is a special flow restrictor built into the dryer solenoid that forces water into just a small trickle.
If the water is not trickling into the condenser chamber then you would normally expect the laundry to get hot but remain wet with the drum being quite a steamy atmosphere.
Need Professional Help or Spare Parts?
Thanks for the feedback.
Do you know the valve solenoid voltage, I did a quick search and now suspect it may be mains. ??
(I was hoping that someone had had a go at repairs since I found when searching suggestions to replace a diode in the power supply in dead machines.)
They’ve always been 230 volts, but then again so have the water pumps and someone had one the other day that was only a fraction that. If you have a proper tester and know how to safely use it you could see what voltage is supplied to the other valves when filling.
Also disconnect from the mains anc check the resistance readings of all the valves to see if the dryer one is open circuit. They should have a very high resistance but still give a reading.
Need Professional Help or Spare Parts?
Thanks, I will check next week before I take the board out and I'd better check continuity as as well.
If the solenoid is mains the onboard device will likely be a triac. Hopefully I'll learn more next week.
The solenoid valve may have the voltage marked on the side of the solenoid. I'd expect the failed component to be a triac, and the coil to be AC, but I guess it is always possible that a washing machine manufacturer has come up with some reason to use DC.
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